Southwestern and Central Turkey

It's difficult to summarize the eight towns I visited in the two weeks since Istanbul. This country has it all: cute seaside villages (Fethiye, Kaş), rocky mountains with patches of snow, Roman ruins (Selçuk/Ephesus, Olimpos), big urban centers (Antalya, Konya), and some very unusual scenery (Pamukkale, Uçhisar/Cappadocia).

This whirlwind tour was made possible by Turkey's efficient and comfortable bus network with its frequent connections, overnight buses on longer routes, and attendants serving up snacks and the ubiquitous çay (Turkish tea). Many people invited me to sit and relax over çay; several went further to show me around, treat me to their home cooking, and the sweet man at the post office in Konya even bought me a gift! I found Turkish men to be quite handsome and charming.

The last few days in the hilltop town of Uçhisar were a great way to end my time in Turkey -- I relaxed, hiked around, and enjoyed the view from my terrace. I'd love to come back for the people and to spend more time exploring the valleys of Cappadocia. Maybe in September?

Istanbul, Turkey

My friend Leib wanted to spend his birthday week in Istanbul and it was just enough. We saw the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofya church/mosque, Yerbatan Sarnici underground cistern, Topkapi Palace, and five synagogues. Another highlight was a ferry ride up the Bosphoros strait, the boundary between the European and Asian continents. I'd say that Istanbul feels closer to Europe than Asia.

Besides amazing history and architecture, Istanbul also has good (albeit expensive) shopping with its Egyptian and Covered Bazaars and the Taksim square/Istiklal Cadessi pedestrian area.

The people are welcoming and appreciate the few words of Turkish I've learned -- so far I'm enjoying Turkey. Leib has just left for home and I have another two weeks here for Ephesus and Cappadocia before I fly back to Israel.

Israel

Passover in Israel is synonymous with springtime. I celebrated much of the holiday up north in the Galilee hiking through wildflowers with my cousins.

In some respects, the country is more developed than it was a dozen years ago with its new roads, high-speed train, strip malls, and wireless Internet. On the other hand, many things haven't changed and remind me of the difficulties of daily life. Tension is high and my bags were thoroughly searched due to tight security at the border and bus station (for good reason given the suicide bombing in Tel Aviv earlier this week). People are either caring and kind or rude and impatient. Israel is a place of extremes and my feelings reflect ambivalence -- I love it knowing that I would hate living here.

My friend Leib arrived a few days ago and on Sunday we fly to Istanbul for a week. Then I'll have another two weeks in Turkey before I return to Israel for a bit more visiting with the family.

Cairo, Egypt

The first time I passed through Cairo (in late February before Kenya), I barely saw any of the sights. This time I had five days to hit the pyramids, Islamic Cairo, the Egyptian Museum, and ride a felucca boat on the Nile.

Plus I had company: Monique rearranged her flights from Nairobi to include a stop in Cairo. Together with some new local friends, we had a non-stop series of late nights. Most memorable was sitting on the rooftop watching the moon set behind the Pyramids of Giza with one of Monique's cocktails in hand.

Having lived in Israel in 1992, I feel very comfortable in the Middle East. The Egyptian food is familiar (delicious falafel and baba ghanoush) and knowing Hebrew and Israeli slang helps a lot with Arabic. The people are warm, generous, and hospitable, and being in Egypt felt like coming home after slogging through East Africa.

I'm hoping I can catch up on sleep now that Monique and I have said goodbye for the third time. Now that I've arrived in Tel Aviv, I really do feel at home. In time for Passover, it seems appropriate that I traveled overland through the Sinai desert to Israel, where friends and family await.

Logistics Update: Itinerary and Budget

Itinerary

I just arrived in Israel. Leib is meeting me here on April 17, then we head to Turkey together around April 23. After that, I'd like to see Jordan (Petra) and come back to spend more time in Israel and Egypt (diving). From there, I'm thinking about heading to Morocco before moving on to Europe.

Other countries I hope to visit on the way: Spain, Greece, Holland, England, Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Croatia...

Budget

Since early December, I've spent roughly $7,000 across 9 countries and two continents.

I spent about $900 in 17 days in Vietnam ($53/day), including a shipment of new clothes I had tailored for me in Hoi An (a suit, dress, jacket, skirts, shirts, and more). This also includes two guided tours of Halong Bay and the Mekong Delta.

Cambodia was very inexpensive at $36/day ($400 over 11 days). Half of that time I traveled with Karen, so we split costs for hotel and driving around Angkor (but not the hefty $60 entrance fee).

Laos was impossibly cheap at $20/day ($255 for 13 days). While Luang Prabang was average ($15/night for the hotel and $10 for a fancy dinner), overnight stays for $1-$3 in more remote areas helped stretch my Lao Kip.

I passed through Bangkok three times in transit, and spent a total of 15 days and $750 in Thailand ($50/day). That includes two Air Asia flights ($92 for both) and lots of great meals, hotels on the beach, and shopping.

Almost a month in Indonesia (24 days) totaled $1,735 ($72/day). Five days of diving, two nights at the Bali Intercontinental, and seven flights (including one missed flight at $27) brought up the average even though Amber and her family wouldn't let me pay for anything the week we were together.

On the way to Africa I ate well and bought a bunch of stuff in Korea ($135 including a jacket -- it was freezing in Seoul). Three short days in Cairo cost $100.

The past five weeks in East Africa cost $2,780 -- $1,480 over 22 days in Kenya ($67/day) plus $1,300 over 15 days in Tanzania ($87/day). That includes about $900 for 11 days of safari! Safari in Tanzania is almost double the cost of Kenya due to steeper park entry fees. The total also includes a round-trip flight from Cairo for $650 (I miss Air Asia!) and two days of diving (I miss Malaysia!).

Tanzania

After a side trip to the Kenyan coast (Mombasa and Diani Beach), I circled back to Nairobi to meet Monique from San Francisco. We met in Malaysia a few months back and did our diving certification together. (See my November post: Scuba Diving.) Since then, Monique ended her seven month trip through Asia and returned home. Two months later, Monique is traveling yet again in the few weeks before she starts her new job. I have the feeling she'll be planning another trip before the year is out.

It was great to travel with Monique again, especially here. Africa is not as easy as Asia, and flying solo is more of a challenge. We crossed from Kenya into Tanzania and signed up for a four-day safari in Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. Amazing just like my safari in Kenya... and this time we saw leopards and the wildebeest migration! Then we stopped at the base of Kilimanjaro (Moshi) where instead of climbing, we spent the day at the police station reporting a bus scam including the theft of Monique's boots.

We had four relaxing days in Zanzibar before returning to Moshi to retrieve the stolen boots which the police improbably recovered. Now I'm back in Nairobi to see Monique off. In less than a week, I too will be wrapping up my month in East Africa.

African Safari

It only took six flights to get from Southeast Asia (Flores, Indonesia) to Africa (Nairobi, Kenya) with rest stops in Bali, Seoul, and Cairo.

I decided to take some pressure off of my Africa itinerary by concentrating on a small part of East Africa. What better way to kick off my five week stint in Kenya and Tanzania than with a safari? The scenery is OK, but it's the wild animals that are the real attraction and those safari brochures are not exaggerating.

Getting there is part of the adventure: the roads here are horrific and punish vehicles along with their passengers. From Nairobi to Masai Mara takes six hours each way, not including a few stops for minor mechanical repairs. But even before you cross into the Game Reserves, the wildlife sightings begin.

Of course the place is crawling with zebras, buffalo, and antelope (ten types including my personal favorite, the Thomson's gazelle). A bit harder to find are the lions, elephants, giraffes, rhinoceroses, hippopotamuses, and elusive cheetahs. Then there are the birds... we spotted about forty different species without even trying, including flamingos by the thousands, massive eagles, crowned cranes, and the gorgeous lilac breasted rollers. Not to mention the miscellaneous baboons, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, and more.

Frederick, my personal driver/guide/teacher/mechanic/navigator, explained that the animals -- even those lions right next to us -- don't see you as long as you stay inside the vehicle. We drove around for hours identifying animals. I loved riding while standing on the seats, my head and shoulders poking through the open roof. I felt like I was outside... part of the scenery.

Indonesia and Southeast Asia Wrap-up

My last few weeks in Southeast Asia are ending on an upbeat note: wedding festivities in Jakarta Indonesia, a week in Bali with Amber, and scuba diving in Flores.

Five months, nine countries, and less than ten thousand dollars later, below are some of my highlights (in no particular order):

Most friendly kids: Vietnam
Most friendly adults: Indonesia
Most helpful adults (especially considering the language barrier): China
Best karaoke song: Total Eclipse of the Heart, Philippines (sing it, Sue!)
Most relaxing beach: Koh Jum, Thailand
Favorite fruit: (tie) Philippine mangoes and pineapples
Best scenery: Laos
Best temple: Angkor, Cambodia
Best handicraft shopping: Bali, Indonesia
Cleanest city: Singapore
Best ATM: Phnom Penh, Cambodia (dispenses US dollars with no fee)
Best coffee and pan au chocolat: Hanoi, Vietnam
Best clothes shopping: Hoi An, Vietnam
Best shoe shopping: Singapore
Best night craft market: Luang Prabang, Laos
Most fun mode of transport: Jeepneys (Philippines)
Cutest small village: Ban Na, Laos
Best bike ride: Yangshuo, China
Most crazy traffic: Vietnam
Best ancient architecture: Great Wall, China
Best modern architecture: Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai, China
Best diving: Pulau Sipadan, Malaysia
Best sunset: Boracay, Philippines
Best airport: Singapore
Favorite airline: Air Asia
Most fun food: Sticky rice, Laos
Best dim sum: Hong Kong
Best seafood: Cambodia
Best hike: Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia
Best rice terraces: Indonesia (Bali and Flores)
Most fascinating animal: ornate ghost pipe fish (Flores, Indonesia)
Best beer: Beer Lao, Laos
Best night food market: Singapore
Most bizarre item for sale on the street: Power tools (Philippines)

Finally, a short list of places I missed and hope to see another time: Melaka (Peninsular Malaysia), Sarawak (Malaysian Borneo), Similan Islands (Thailand), Sulawesi (Indonesia), Tibet (China), plus Japan and Australia/New Zealand/Fiji.

Tomorrow I'm off to Africa. I land in Cairo and am planning to head south to Kenya and Tanzania for some safari action.

Thailand Post-Tsunami

When I arrived in Phuket, Thailand I was lucky to meet John Moretti. He overheard me asking for directions to Khao Lak and offered me a ride, which turned into a two-day tour of the area hardest hit by the tsunami.

John is one of those rare, inspiring people who says "I should do something" and follows through beyond expectations. He has been working in Thailand for the past three months on his own project www.operationplayground.org as well as with www.airlineamb.org. Both efforts are impressive and make me wonder if I should spend time volunteering in addition to writing checks.

I can see that by coming to Thailand and working here on the ground, John's personal involvement and relationships with the Thai people are almost as important as the playgrounds he builds. He introduced me to a number of tsunami survivors, both Thai and international, and I heard their stories first-hand. I saw that much of the devastation has been cleaned up but there is still much more to be done. Above all, the thing that broke my heart was the refugee camp for orphaned Thai children (www.tsunamirefugees.org).

Laos

The relaxed pace in Laos is such a contrast to its go-getter neighbors (China, Vietnam, and Thailand). The country has no coastline, but its lovely mountain scenery is punctuated by numerous rivers including the Mekong. I rode as many boats as buses (four each) as the rivers provide the only means of transportation to remote villages such as Muang Ngoi Neua.

I spent three days there trekking after stops in Luang Prabang (quaint former capital packed with dozens of Buddhist temples), Vang Vieng (biking and kayaking backpacker hangout), and Vientiane (possibly the slowest national capital on Earth).

Laos is the place in SE Asia to mellow out, with lots of outdoor activities, spiritual places, and colorful villages. Now I'm back in Thailand (Chiang Rai) deciding where to go next before meeting Amber in Jakarta in two weeks.

Cambodia

Cambodia was tough. The magnificence of Angkor is overshadowed in my mind by recent tragedies.

The feeling first started with my arrival in Bangkok at the same time as the one-year anniversary of the tsunami.

Next I got my first glimpse of the poverty and desperation of Cambodia at the overland border crossing with Thailand. The flow of men, women, and children -- the majority working but some begging -- mostly toward wealthier Thailand was unlike anything I had ever seen.

The "major highway" to Siem Reap (the town near Angkor) was unpaved, dusty, and riddled with potholes. The country feels very undeveloped. As much as I loved Angkor, I disliked Siem Reap and the people in it who were constantly hassling me to try to get my business or begging (especially kids but also some land mine victims) -- much more intense than Shanghai and Hanoi put together.

After seeing the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh (site of the former Khmer Rouge S-21 prison) I know I should be more sympathetic. I haven't been to Auschwitz but I imagine the experience is similar. It is hard to believe what horrors took place in Cambodia during the 1970s and 1980s. Cambodia also suffered from US bombings during the Vietnam War. The people have endured a lot of trauma very recently.

On a positive note, I am glad I saw more of Cambodia than Siem Reap. I liked the people much better in the less touristed parts of the country. Phnom Penh was great and the beach at Sihanoukville was quiet and relaxed. Cambodia also serves up the best seafood in Asia.

Temples of Angkor

People rave about going to see Angkor Wat in Cambodia, a monumental temple ruin from the 12th century. What I didn't realize is that Angkor (meaning "city") is a massive complex comprising dozens of ruins, less than half of which I could visit in 4+ days.

The temples range in age from the 9th century to the 15th, and vary in style, size, and setting. Angkor Wat is the largest. Others have amazingly preserved carvings and bas-reliefs, interesting architecture, and a few are overgrown with fantastic tree roots adding a "jungle" dimension.

Tomorrow I shift from the past to the present -- from Angkor, ancient capital of the Khmer empire, to Cambodia's current capital, Phnom Penh.

Vietnam

I have always had mixed feelings about traveling to Vietnam because of my country's role in what is locally called "The American War."

Despite my own sense of guilt about US military activity in Indochina, today's Vietnamese do not harbor any negative feelings toward the US or Americans.

The kids are particularly wonderful. They are very friendly and sweet... they wave as you pass by and sing "hello hello." I started in Saigon and worked my way north to Hanoi with a stop in Central Vietnam (Hue and Hoi An). Vietnam is bigger than it looks and has a diversity of scenery (river industry, beaches, big cities, sea with karst formations, rice terraces) and lots of history. Unfortunately, as I headed north, the weather worsened: non-stop rain and flooding in Hue gave way to freezing temperatures in the highlands of Sapa.

I am excited to get back to some warmer climes! Tomorrow I fly to Bangkok to work my way toward Angkor in Cambodia. I also predict a beach in my near future.

Five countries and counting...

I have arrived in Vietnam after spending a week in Singapore. I'm in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC for short, aka Saigon) and so far so good. It reminds me of China, which is an excellent sign.

On the airplane I had some time to review my budget from the past few months. Read on if you are interested in how I've managed to spend less than $6,000 touring five countries in about three months. I've already told you about the $2,000 I spent in China ($65/day)...

Malaysia was a bargain at about $1,500 for nearly a month ($55/day). The biggest expenditures were the Open Water and Advanced Open Water diving certifications (a mere $370 for 12 dives), three nights at the Shangri-La in KL, plus a flight from the Peninsula to Borneo ($90 thanks to Air Asia... I love them!).

A short side trip to the Philippines set me back $450 ($50/day) including a $100 flight (Air Asia comes through again) and another day of diving. The biggest bargain destination so far.

Bali was most pricey ($900 or $100/day) on account of the $300 I spent buying and shipping some unbelievable souvenirs. This total also includes two flights -- Manila to KL and KL to Bali -- plus an expensive overnight at a Marriott near the airport in KL. (There's a story there.)

Singapore is also relatively expensive, where I spent $765 ($95/day) even with three nights at the Ritz-Carlton courtesy of Casey. She also paid for a sensational dinner at the restaurant atop the tallest hotel in town... highly recommended for the food and the views! I spent a few hundred bucks on food and drinks during my week (3 Singapore Slings at Raffles will cost you $12 each). The total also includes an expensive flight from Bali (I had to fly Garuda instead of Air Asia) plus another $150 on shopping plus Singapore Post (three pairs of shoes from Charles & Keith, among other things).

My budget is right on target, and I feel like I'm achieving a good balance between "living like a local" and treating myself to nice meals, mid-range hotels, and lots of purchases. Either way, the money I spend on this trip is the best money I have ever spent.

The current plan is to tour Vietnam starting with the Mekong Delta in the South then head North to Hanoi and environs with a stop or two on the way. Next will be Laos, Cambodia (Angkor Wat), then Bangkok.

Singapore

For some reason, I expected Singapore to feel the same as Hong Kong. While they are both developed Western metropolises studded with sky-scrapers and shopping malls, Singapore seems more green, more efficient, and more friendly.

Everything is clean and orderly. The food is fresh and beautiful -- even the hawker centers resemble food courts in upscale malls rather than the standard frenetic Asian night markets. The subway is fast, cheap, and air-conditioned. Taxis are spotless Mercedes sedans (including meters). Stores accept American Express. And the airport has free Internet!

Singapore is the best city in Asia! Maybe staying at the Ritz-Carlton and painting the town red with my friend Casey has something to do with it. Or maybe after Bali I am ready for a big-city fix. Either way, I can't stop telling Casey how much I love it here and am starting to think that I may need to come back after toughing it out on the Vietnam-Laos-Cambodia circuit.

Bali, Indonesia

Bali has been on my list for a long time (one of many that prompted this trip)... and it did not disappoint. My favorite spot was Ubud, a cute inland town with great shopping, excellent food, and a gorgeously landscaped hotel including a pool I had no time to use.

The island is very picturesque. I rented a bike for three days and rode along rice terraces and shop-lined streets stocked with local art and handicrafts. I also hiked part way up Bali's highest and holiest mountain: the Gunung Agung volcano. Finally I did a bit more diving at the Liberty wreck near Amed's rocky beaches. It is sad how quiet Bali is -- most hotels are empty and everyone laments the lack of tourists. What a shame that people are scared away from such a beautiful destination!

Next I'm off to Singapore then Vietnam/Laos/Cambodia. It looks like I may circle back to Indonesia in February. Amber's brother is getting married in Jakarta and I plan to change my ticket so I can meet up with the wedding party. I am constantly struggling with the trade-off between spending more time in one place and moving on to see others... I just don't want to cut the rest of my itinerary short by taking more time in Southeast Asia. Africa will just have to wait!

The Philippines

While I was a bit unsettled about trading time in Indonesia for an unplanned trip to the Philippines, I am so glad I went! Seven of us traveled to the tiny island of Boracay together, where we relaxed on the beach and did a few dives. The Philippines are very different from the rest of Southeast Asia: 7,000+ islands, heavy Spanish and American influences, and Catholic. Manila reminded me of Lima, Peru. The people are extremely friendly and we had great fun riding around in Jeepneys -- old US Army Jeeps which have been converted into colorful public buses.

I've just arrived in Ubud, Bali (Indonesia) where I plan to spend 9 days on the beach, biking, doing a wreck dive, and climbing another volcano. I have mixed feelings about being here after the bombs last month (and in 2002), but so far all seems peaceful and normal. And at 10,000 Indonesian rupiah to the dollar, I am a millionaire (a mere $100 = 1,000,000 Rp)!

Scuba Diving

Regards from Manila! I decided to switch around my plans and go with friends to the Philippines instead of Kalimantan and Sulawesi (Indonesia).

I spent the last few days in Semporna, Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) getting my Open Water and Advanced Open Water PADI certifications. Diving is incredible... very surreal. We did eleven dives -- including several at Sipidan -- where we saw an amazing variety of fish, sharks, coral, sea turtles, starfish, eels, etc.

My dive buddy, Monique from San Francisco, talked me into joining her and a bunch of others on a side trip to the Philippines. We just arrived and tomorrow we head to the beach at Boracay. After that I will visit Indonesia, flying to Bali on the 19th.

Mount Kinabalu

Climbing Mount Kinabalu was the toughest hike I have ever done. It is simply awesome. When I got to the peak (4,101 m/13,455 ft) I was overcome with emotion and burst into tears. It was less about the spectacular view and more about an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. It was a moving experience.

Borneo is a paradise for nature lovers. So far I have traveled in Sabah, the eastern part of Malaysian Borneo. The capital, Kota Kinabalu, is a cute little town on the coast with friendly people and great markets. Next I plan to take a 3-day PADI certification course at Semporna, the gateway to world-class diving at Pulau Sipadan.

On to Malaysian Borneo

My week traveling through Peninsular Malaysia with my new Dutch friends is at an end. I'm back in KL doing laundry and taking care of other errands after a few days at Taman Negara national park. We did some good hiking but ended up seeing only a flying squirrel, bats, fireflies, and a big rat. The jungle here is more about ambience than actual wildlife sightings.

Tomorrow I fly to Kota Kinabalu to meet up with another new Penang friend to climb Mount Kinabalu. Then I'm hoping the beach at Pulau Sipadan doesn't get rained out!