My friend Leib wanted to spend his birthday week in Istanbul and it was just enough. We saw the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofya church/mosque, Yerbatan Sarnici underground cistern, Topkapi Palace, and five synagogues. Another highlight was a ferry ride up the Bosphoros strait, the boundary between the European and Asian continents. I'd say that Istanbul feels closer to Europe than Asia.
Besides amazing history and architecture, Istanbul also has good (albeit expensive) shopping with its Egyptian and Covered Bazaars and the Taksim square/Istiklal Cadessi pedestrian area.
The people are welcoming and appreciate the few words of Turkish I've learned -- so far I'm enjoying Turkey. Leib has just left for home and I have another two weeks here for Ephesus and Cappadocia before I fly back to Israel.
Sunday, April 30, 2006
Istanbul, Turkey
Friday, April 21, 2006
Israel
Passover in Israel is synonymous with springtime. I celebrated much of the holiday up north in the Galilee hiking through wildflowers with my cousins.In some respects, the country is more developed than it was a dozen years ago with its new roads, high-speed train, strip malls, and wireless Internet. On the other hand, many things haven't changed and remind me of the difficulties of daily life. Tension is high and my bags were thoroughly searched due to tight security at the border and bus station (for good reason given the suicide bombing in Tel Aviv earlier this week). People are either caring and kind or rude and impatient. Israel is a place of extremes and my feelings reflect ambivalence -- I love it knowing that I would hate living here.
My friend Leib arrived a few days ago and on Sunday we fly to Istanbul for a week. Then I'll have another two weeks in Turkey before I return to Israel for a bit more visiting with the family.
Monday, April 10, 2006
Cairo, Egypt
The first time I passed through Cairo (in late February before Kenya), I barely saw any of the sights. This time I had five days to hit the pyramids, Islamic Cairo, the Egyptian Museum, and ride a felucca boat on the Nile.Plus I had company: Monique rearranged her flights from Nairobi to include a stop in Cairo. Together with some new local friends, we had a non-stop series of late nights. Most memorable was sitting on the rooftop watching the moon set behind the Pyramids of Giza with one of Monique's cocktails in hand.
Having lived in Israel in 1992, I feel very comfortable in the Middle East. The Egyptian food is familiar (delicious falafel and baba ghanoush) and knowing Hebrew and Israeli slang helps a lot with Arabic. The people are warm, generous, and hospitable, and being in Egypt felt like coming home after slogging through East Africa.
I'm hoping I can catch up on sleep now that Monique and I have said goodbye for the third time. Now that I've arrived in Tel Aviv, I really do feel at home. In time for Passover, it seems appropriate that I traveled overland through the Sinai desert to Israel, where friends and family await.
Sunday, April 09, 2006
Logistics Update: Itinerary and Budget
Itinerary
I just arrived in Israel. Leib is meeting me here on April 17, then we head to Turkey together around April 23. After that, I'd like to see Jordan (Petra) and come back to spend more time in Israel and Egypt (diving). From there, I'm thinking about heading to Morocco before moving on to Europe.
Other countries I hope to visit on the way: Spain, Greece, Holland, England, Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Croatia...
Budget
Since early December, I've spent roughly $7,000 across 9 countries and two continents.
I spent about $900 in 17 days in Vietnam ($53/day), including a shipment of new clothes I had tailored for me in Hoi An (a suit, dress, jacket, skirts, shirts, and more). This also includes two guided tours of Halong Bay and the Mekong Delta.
Cambodia was very inexpensive at $36/day ($400 over 11 days). Half of that time I traveled with Karen, so we split costs for hotel and driving around Angkor (but not the hefty $60 entrance fee).
Laos was impossibly cheap at $20/day ($255 for 13 days). While Luang Prabang was average ($15/night for the hotel and $10 for a fancy dinner), overnight stays for $1-$3 in more remote areas helped stretch my Lao Kip.
I passed through Bangkok three times in transit, and spent a total of 15 days and $750 in Thailand ($50/day). That includes two Air Asia flights ($92 for both) and lots of great meals, hotels on the beach, and shopping.
Almost a month in Indonesia (24 days) totaled $1,735 ($72/day). Five days of diving, two nights at the Bali Intercontinental, and seven flights (including one missed flight at $27) brought up the average even though Amber and her family wouldn't let me pay for anything the week we were together.
On the way to Africa I ate well and bought a bunch of stuff in Korea ($135 including a jacket -- it was freezing in Seoul). Three short days in Cairo cost $100.
The past five weeks in East Africa cost $2,780 -- $1,480 over 22 days in Kenya ($67/day) plus $1,300 over 15 days in Tanzania ($87/day). That includes about $900 for 11 days of safari! Safari in Tanzania is almost double the cost of Kenya due to steeper park entry fees. The total also includes a round-trip flight from Cairo for $650 (I miss Air Asia!) and two days of diving (I miss Malaysia!).
I just arrived in Israel. Leib is meeting me here on April 17, then we head to Turkey together around April 23. After that, I'd like to see Jordan (Petra) and come back to spend more time in Israel and Egypt (diving). From there, I'm thinking about heading to Morocco before moving on to Europe.
Other countries I hope to visit on the way: Spain, Greece, Holland, England, Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Croatia...
Budget
Since early December, I've spent roughly $7,000 across 9 countries and two continents.
I spent about $900 in 17 days in Vietnam ($53/day), including a shipment of new clothes I had tailored for me in Hoi An (a suit, dress, jacket, skirts, shirts, and more). This also includes two guided tours of Halong Bay and the Mekong Delta.
Cambodia was very inexpensive at $36/day ($400 over 11 days). Half of that time I traveled with Karen, so we split costs for hotel and driving around Angkor (but not the hefty $60 entrance fee).
Laos was impossibly cheap at $20/day ($255 for 13 days). While Luang Prabang was average ($15/night for the hotel and $10 for a fancy dinner), overnight stays for $1-$3 in more remote areas helped stretch my Lao Kip.
I passed through Bangkok three times in transit, and spent a total of 15 days and $750 in Thailand ($50/day). That includes two Air Asia flights ($92 for both) and lots of great meals, hotels on the beach, and shopping.
Almost a month in Indonesia (24 days) totaled $1,735 ($72/day). Five days of diving, two nights at the Bali Intercontinental, and seven flights (including one missed flight at $27) brought up the average even though Amber and her family wouldn't let me pay for anything the week we were together.
On the way to Africa I ate well and bought a bunch of stuff in Korea ($135 including a jacket -- it was freezing in Seoul). Three short days in Cairo cost $100.
The past five weeks in East Africa cost $2,780 -- $1,480 over 22 days in Kenya ($67/day) plus $1,300 over 15 days in Tanzania ($87/day). That includes about $900 for 11 days of safari! Safari in Tanzania is almost double the cost of Kenya due to steeper park entry fees. The total also includes a round-trip flight from Cairo for $650 (I miss Air Asia!) and two days of diving (I miss Malaysia!).
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