The Trip by the Numbers

It is hard to summarize a year's worth of amazing experiences into one "favorite place" or "most important thing I learned" or "best story." For my last post, I hope this list provides a bit of flavor for the depth and breadth of my travels:

- Total countries: 30 (8 I had visited previously, 22 were new to me)
- Flights: 39
- Missed flights: 1
- Times I checked my bag for a flight: All but once
- Times my bag got lost: 0
- Free flights using frequent flier miles: 8 (including 6 with my round-the-world ticket)
- Overnight trips: 20 (10 by train, 6 by bus, and 4 by ferry)
- Nights spent in airports: 1
- Bus breakdowns: 2
- Boat breakdowns: 2
- CDs burned with pictures: 20 (18 CD-ROMs plus 2 DVD-ROMs)
- Number of pictures: 4,250
- Unreadable CDs: 2
- Total pictures lost due to data issues: 10 (backups come in handy)
- Blog posts: 49
- Yahoo! group members: 43
- Friends and family I met up with while traveling: 10
- Friends I made on the trip who I met again in another place: 13
- Books read: At least 20
- Guidebooks used: 10 (7 were Lonely Planet)
- Places visited that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List: 52
- Places that Lonely Planet says are famous for being in a James Bond movie: 3
- Scuba dives: 39 (in 9 places)
- 4,000+ meter peaks climbed: 2
- African game parks visited: 6
- Hollywood movies seen in a theater: 6
- Weddings attended: 2
- Synagogues where I attended services: 7
- Packages mailed to the US: 36
- Packages lost: 0 (though an envelope from Cairo arrived with a hole in the corner and a missing Swiss Army knife)
- Visits to a police station: 4
- Visits to a US embassy: 2
- Visits to a health clinic/ER: 2 (both accompanying fellow travelers)
- Times I had food poisoning: 2
- Times I was seasick: 2
- ATM withdrawals: 159
- Problems with ATM machines: 1
- Foreign currencies: 26
- Credit card transactions: 52
- Cash advances on my credit card: Once by accident

Itinerary Wrap-up

Below are details on the thirty countries I visited in the thirteen months between September 2005 and October 2006.

1 China: September 13-October 14, 2005
Beijing, Simatai (Great Wall), Xian, Yichang-Badong-Wushan-Fengjie-Chongqing (Three Gorges), Guilin-Yangshuo, Hong Kong, Shanghai/Hangzhou, Beijing
2 Malaysia: October 14-November 11
Peninsular Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur, Penang/Georgetown, Taman Negara), Malaysian Borneo (Kota Kinabalu, Mount Kinabalu, Semporna)
3 Philippines: November 11-19 (Manila, Boracay, Taal Volcano)
4 Indonesia: November 20-29 and January 31-February 22
Bali (Ubud, Besakih/Gunung Agung, Amed/Tulamben, Kuta/Jimbaran), Bintan, Jakarta, Flores (Maumere, Moni)
5 Singapore: November 29-December 6 and January 30
6 Vietnam: December 6-22
Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) aka Saigon, Mekong Delta, Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa
7 Thailand: December 22-23 and January 3-7 and January 21-29 (Bangkok, Pattaya, Chiang Rai, Khao Lak, Koh Jum)
8 Cambodia: December 24-January 2, 2006 (Siem Reap/Angkor, Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville)
9 Laos: January 8-20 (Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Muang Ngoi Neua)
10 Kenya: February 28-March 13 and March 28-April 4
Nairobi, Lake Nakuru, Masai Mara, Amboseli, Mombasa, Diani Beach, Lake Naivasha, Nanyuki
11 Tanzania: March 14-27
Arusha, Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Moshi, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar
12 Egypt: February 25-27 and April 5-9 and June 7-20
Cairo, Alexandria, Aswan, Luxor, Safaga
13 Israel: April 10-23 and May 15-30 and June 5-6
Tel Aviv, Rosh Pina, Jerusalem, Haifa, Moshav Hazorim, Akko, Tzfat, Ein Gedi, Eilat
14 Turkey: April 24-May 14
Istanbul, Selçuk, Pamukkale, Fethiye, Kaş, Olimpos, Antalya, Konya, Uçhisar
15 Jordan: May 31-June 4 (Petra, Wadi Rum, Aqaba)
16 Holland: June 21-26 and August 4-5 (Amsterdam)
17 Spain: June 27 (Salamanca) and July 8-9 (Seville) and October 13-23 (Madrid, Barcelona)
18 Portugal: June 28-July 7 (Porto, Leiria, Lisbon, Sintra, Lagos)
19 Morocco: July 10-24 (Tetouan, Chauoen, Fes, Casablanca, El Jadida, Jebel Toubkal, Marrakech)
20 Belgium: July 25-27 (Brussels, Namur, Rochefort)
21 France: July 28-August 2 (Reims, Paris)
22 England: August 3 and August 14-19 (London, Ingleton)
23 Switzerland: August 6-13 (Montreux, Murren, Luzern, Zurich)
24 Greece: August 20-September 11
Athens, Crete (Hania, Rethymno, Iraklio), Santorini (Oia), Folegandros, Sifnos, Serifos, Syros, Mykonos, Pelion Peninsula/Horefto, Meteora/Kalabaka, Thessaloniki
25 Bulgaria: September 12-15 (Sofia, Plovdiv, Veliko Târnovo)
26 Romania: September 16-21 (Bucharest, Sinaia, Braşov, Sighişoara)
27 Hungary: September 22-23 (Budapest)
28 Slovakia: September 24-29 (Bratislava, Terchova, Levoča, Starý Smokovec)
29 Poland: September 30-October 9 (Zakopane, Kraków, Rzeszow, Zamość, Biecz)
30 Czech Republic: October 10-12 (Prague)

Budget Wrap-up

If I decide to write a book about my trip, I could give it the boring title "Around the World on $75 a Day." In the final calculus I spent roughly $30,000 over 400 days... a lot less than I anticipated.

I feel that I struck a good balance between saving money (e.g. my round-the-world airline ticket cost a mere $420 in taxes and fees thanks to frequent flier miles) and splurging on nice hotels (e.g. in Eilat and Bali), activities (e.g. scuba diving and safaris), and purchases (I bought enough gifts to ship thirty-six packages to the US).

The cheapest country was Laos ($20/day) as compared to super-pricey Switzerland at $193/day. The weakest currency was the Vietnamese Dong (I was rich with $1 = 16,000 VND) while England's Pound was the strongest (£1 = $1.88). I spent the most time -- one month each -- in Indonesia, Israel, and China.

Below is a country-by-country summary:

1 China $2,000 for 31 days ($65/day)
2 Malaysia $1,500 for 27 days ($55/day)
3 Philippines $450 for 9 days ($50/day)
4 Indonesia $2,635 for 33 days ($80/day)
5 Singapore $765 for 8 days ($95/day)
6 Vietnam $900 for 17 days ($53/day)
7 Cambodia $400 for 11 days ($36/day)
8 Laos $255 for 13 days ($20/day)
9 Thailand $750 for 15 days ($50/day)
10 Egypt $1,265 for 25 days ($51/day)
11 Israel $1,225 for 32 days ($38/day)
12 Turkey $1,435 for 22 days ($65/day)
13 Jordan $215 for 5 days ($43/day)
14 Kenya $1,480 for 22 days ($67/day)
15 Tanzania $1,300 for 15 days ($87/day)
16 Holland $486 for 9 days ($54/day)
17 Spain $1,052 for 13 days ($81/day)
18 Portugal $1,182 for 10 days ($118/day)
19 Morocco $523 for 14 days ($37/day)
20 Belgium $548 for 4 days ($136/day)
21 France $709 for 6 days ($118/day)
22 England $790 for 7 days ($113/day)
23 Switzerland $1,350 for 7 days ($193/day)
24 Greece $2,415 for 23 days ($105/day)
25 Bulgaria $130 for 4 days ($32/day)
26 Romania $295 for 6 days ($49/day)
27 Hungary $328 for 2 days ($164/day)
28 Slovakia $230 for 6 days ($39/day)
29 Poland $412 for 9 days ($46/day)
30 Czech Republic $375 for 3 days ($125/day)

Budget Update: Eastern Europe and Greece

The last leg of my journey cost about $5,000 over nine weeks.

My single biggest expense of the entire year was $875 for a weeklong yacht cruise in the Greek islands... and it proved to be one of my worst experiences. With this splurge, Greece added up to $2,415 for 23 days ($105/day).

Bulgaria was the cheapest of the bunch where I spent $130 over 4 days ($32/day). In many Eastern European countries beer really is cheaper than water.

Six days in Romania worked out to only $49/day ($295 total), super-cheap considering all of the towns I visited.

Two days of Jewish holidays in Hungary totaled $328 ($164/day) because I treated myself to two nights at the Budapest Marriott.

Back on the budget trail, Slovakia was $39/day ($230 over 6 days) including a classical music concert ($3.60) and travel through the countryside.

Poland came to $410 for nine days ($46/day) including car rental and gas but excluding damage from Eduardo (I'd rather not think about it).

Czech Republic was an expensive $125/day (three days in Prague) where I stayed in a nice hotel instead of a youth hostel and did a bit of shopping. Things in general are not cheap due to the tourist factor.

Finally, my last week in Spain cost $700 ($70/day for 10 days) including some new clothes and lots of sangria ($12 per pitcher).

Barcelona, Spain

This last travel entry is being posted from the comfort of a friend's apartment in Manhattan. A few days in Madrid plus a week in Barcelona were not as relaxing as I had hoped. I entertained myself with flamenco along with delicious tapas, washed down with plentiful sangria. It was a bit too cold for the beaches but the sunshine was pleasant for walking around town marveling at the creative genius of architect Gaudí. To me, his buildings, parks, and little touches to the city will always be the highlight of Barcelona.

I also expended a lot of energy with the police and US embassy going after Eduardo the professional con artist. Long story short, I discovered that he also stole my credit card numbers and -- to my great frustration -- ended up being set free on a technicality after being caught by Spanish immigration. Perhaps now I am more sensitive to thievery, but Barcelona (especially the ultra-tourist La Rambla zone) is rife with pickpockets/bag snatchers and much seedier than I remembered. Suffice it to say that I am ecstatic to be home.

Prague, Czech Republic

I ended my jaunt through Eastern Europe on a high note with Prague. While I expected the city to be similar to the other big cities I visited in the region (such as Budapest), it is more compact, more fun, and is gorgeous everywhere you look.

Unfortunately, it is also packed with tourists (even in low season) and consequently is the rip-off capital of Europe. It has been quite a while since I have been overcharged while buying train tickets, subway tickets, and burning CDs.

In addition to these little irritants, I "lost" my ATM card and in the process learned that Eduardo -- my travel companion in Poland and Jordan -- is a con artist. It has been an experience talking to police and immigration officers in Madrid, Spain with my limited Spanish. I am certain that these are signs that my trip is winding down. For now I think I'll take it easy for awhile in Barcelona and maybe Mallorca before wrapping up this trip with a flight back to the USA.

Poland

My week in Poland was intense. As a country, I loved it: the people are welcoming, the Tatra Mountains (near Zakopane) and the countryside are pretty, and the old town centers are as charming as any in Europe (Kraków, Zamość, and Lublin). But Yom Kippur, the most solemn day of the Jewish year, was a good introduction to Kraków. Services were awful and I saw firsthand how the neighborhood that was once the heart of a vibrant Jewish Europe is now lifeless.

Next I visited two concentration camps: Majdanek (near Lublin) was smaller and quieter than Auschwitz (near Kraków) and both were powerful in different ways. The only evidence that Jews ever lived in my grandparents' hometown of Żółkiewka is a small memorial in the park. Nearby the small town of Izbica has an old Jewish cemetery (now there are only fragments of headstones) that was also the site of executions and several mass graves.

Thankfully I had company: my friend Eduardo and I rented a car together for the tour. He and I met in Petra, Jordan a few months ago; now we're in Prague for a few days.

Budapest, Hungary and Slovakia

Despite my self-imposed rule against "stealth visits," Hungary only got two days... but they were fabulously spent on Budapest. The city is grand and sophisticated, and high holiday services at two different synagogues (including the stunning Dohány) were moving. Two nights at the Marriott right on the Danube in the middle of everything didn't hurt either.

Bratislava, Slovakia has a lovely old town, but the highlight was a hockey match where I happened to sit next to the father of one of the players. He was all smiles when the home team HC Slovan beat Zvolen two to zip. From there I headed East to Terchova (base for a day hiking in the Malá Fatra mountains) and Levoča (lovely town near Slovakia's largest castle and on the way to the High Tatra mountains bordering Poland).

Today I crossed into Poland where I plan to attend Yom Kippur services in Krakow. After that I am bracing myself for a look at Poland's dark history with its Jews including my own grandparents.

Bulgaria and Romania

I buzzed through Bulgaria in a few days en route to Romania, pausing long enough to meet some of my uncle Rudy's relatives in Sofia (sedate capital) and Plovdiv (quieter small town). The last stop was delightful Veliko Târnovo, a medieval former capital set on a hillside above a river, shadowed by a huge citadel.

Romania's capital, Bucharest, has an incredible array of architecture -- from the massive civic Palace of Parliament and its fountain-lined boulevard to art deco to 18th century brick churches to modern glass hotels. Some of the buildings look like they belong in Paris, including a copy of the Arc de Triomphe!

When you get to the mountains of Transylvania and the towns of Sinaia, Braşov, and Sighişoara, medieval castles and fortresses dominate. Romania seems to have more in common with Western Europe than Bulgaria. The castles and cable cars remind me of Switzerland, and the language sounds closer to Italian or French (whereas Bulgaria feels more "post-Communist" and they are still using the Russian Cyrillic alphabet).

Tonight I'm off to Budapest, Hungary to celebrate Rosh Hashana at Europe's largest synagogue.

Greece

It is hard to describe the way a country can smell so good. It's the hanging vines of jasmine, roses, the anise in the national drink called ouzo, thyme, rosemary, and other unidentifiable herbs.

I met up with Marion and Yiorgos in Athens (the Acropolis/Parthenon and archaeological museum are impressive) then took a ferry to Crete (the old port at Hania is adorable). From there I made my way to Santorini and the spectacular town of Oia perched on the edge of a volcanic caldera.

The week yachting around the Cyclades Islands was a huge disappointment, mostly because my captain turned out to be one of the most unpleasant people I met in the past year (that says a lot about him but nothing about Greeks -- he is French). Yiorgos warned me that I might not get along with the other passengers... I never dreamed that it would be the skipper who turned out to be a nightmare!

After Mykonos I headed back to the mainland, with stops in the lush Pelion Peninsula and breathtaking Meteora (monasteries built atop rock pinnacles). Now I'm at my final destination in Northern Greece: the second largest city of Thessaloniki. Tonight I head to Sofia, Bulgaria.

Budget Update: W. Europe + Morocco

So much for budget travel. If you plan to quit your job and really need to stretch your dollar, I would recommend heading for Asia! But saving money wasn't my main objective and I planned for some expensive countries.

I am amazed that I managed to while away almost seven weeks in Western Europe, which wasn't really part of my original itinerary. I don't regret seeing friends old and new, traveling with my niece, and seeing some familiar places from a different angle. I breezed through seven countries in Western Europe: the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, Belgium, France, Switzerland, and England. To simplify matters I will give you the overall damage: $6,210 over 46 days ($135/day).

The total includes six flights (don't ask) and one swank Eurostar train from Paris to London via the Chunnel ($90). In many cases, flying with a budget airline like easyJet was cheaper than the train. For example, I paid $120 for a side-trip by train from London to Central England whereas $105 flew me one-way from Zurich to London.

Switzerland is a different story: $300 bought me unlimited train, bus, and boat travel for eight days (plus entry to most museums), plus they are so kid-friendly that my niece came along for free! Also providing a boost to my bottom line were friends who let me stay with them in Amsterdam and London (thanks to the Dutch Vlessings and "karaoke Sue") and sharing some costs with David in Portugal.

To end on a positive note for cheapskates who love a good bargain (me!), Morocco was super-cheap at $37/day ($540 over 14 days).

Switzerland

After a few days each in Belgium and France, I picked up my niece Eliana in London and we took off for a weekend in Amsterdam plus a week in Switzerland. Our main goal was walking in the Swiss Alps: the Bernese Oberland near Interlaken. There we rode a train to the snowy "Top of Europe" at Jungfrau and hiked alongside grazing cows near Murren and Wengen.

The Swiss scenery is stunning and getting around is a breeze with the world's most efficient and punctual transportation system. I'm usually not into "sightseeing by train" but the views from the scenic trains really are wonderful. Other stops included Montreux (on Lake Geneva with cheese and chocolate factories nearby) and Luzern (charming old town). We also happened to catch two of Europe's big summer festivals on the weekends: the floating Gay Pride parade in Amsterdam and Zurich's techno-music Street Parade.

Getting my niece back home from Heathrow yesterday was tough with the terrorist scare, but she made it and now I'm in London visiting friends. In a week I head to Athens and the final leg of my trip: Eastern Europe.

Morocco

It was awesome riding the ferry from Europe to Africa across the Straits of Gibraltar. Morocco is an over stimulating mixture of French, Arab, Berber, and Spanish cultures, and the litter and broken down buses remind me that I'm in Africa. People (including the women) are very friendly, though the men are too much... always calling out "ça va?" (how are you? in French) and sometimes trying to follow me.

Before ending in Marrakech, stops along the way included Chaouen (cute blue-painted town in the Rif Mountains) and Casablanca (hip, cosmopolitan city where I caught a Moroccan rap concert). I also laid back with the fun beach atmosphere in El Jadida and spent three days trekking in the High Atlas mountains, the high point of which was another 4,000+ meter peak.

Marrakech is wonderful and embodies what you would imagine about Morocco. The rust-colored medina (old town) is a maze of alleys filled with shops, craftsmen at work, and life in action. The main square turns into a circus as the sun sets, with food stalls, juice stands, and entertainers competing for the crowd's attention. Someone will take your picture with a snake, paint your hands with henna, or tell your fortune. Otherwise you can just stand back and watch the scene of dancers, musicians, or even a boxing match.

This afternoon I fly to Brussels, where I rejoin the Western world and make my way toward Switzerland.

Portugal

I arrived in Lisbon just in time to meet David, a friend from DC. We spent a week in the capital and in a super-cute small town in the mountains called Sintra. I also fit in a few other towns on both ends of David's trip: Porto, Leiria, and Lagos.

Lisbon felt like the "San Francisco of Europe." It's located in the hills near the ocean, complete with streetcars and a bridge painted in a strange reddish hue. We needed several days to explore all of the neighborhoods and watch the Portugal vs. England football match. The highlight was joining the victory party along the main avenue and monument. Porto was one of my favorites -- a riverside town from the Middle Ages filled with Baroque architecture also famous for its Port wine.

A few days in Spain also worked into the itinerary, including Salamanca, a small university town near Madrid, and Seville. Morocco here I come!

Middle East Budget

After nine months I think I finally hit the $20,000 mark. It took only $4,000 to get me through two and a half months in the Middle East:

I already mentioned the $100 I spent in three days in Egypt at the end of February. During my five days in Cairo in April partying and sightseeing with Monique I spent another $265, including a $26 horse ride around the pyramids. Finally, the last two weeks in Egypt cost about $800, including four days of diving and lodging at the Holiday Inn Resort in Safaga ($450). That comes to a total of $1,165 over 22 days ($53/day), super-cheap even with the occasional Egyptian rip-off. Especially easy on the wallet were the ten cent falafel sandwiches and five cent bus rides.

Three separate visits to Israel added up to a bit more than a month, most of that time staying with relatives. $1,190 over 32 days ($37/day) included splitting some car rental plus gasoline costs with Leib ($185) and two nights at a resort in Eilat ($250).

A week in Istanbul with Leib and two weeks traveling around Turkey cost $1,435 ($65/day over 22 days). The round-trip flight from Israel was only $300. Food was the biggest cost after arriving, adding up to almost $400.

Finally, five days in Jordan came to $215 ($43/day), including a $20 entry fee to Petra and a dive in Aqaba ($29).

Amsterdam, the Netherlands

After a nightmare trying to change my round-the-world ticket in Cairo, I managed to get a last-minute flight on KLM to Amsterdam. It turns out that I have a lot of friends here and six days were perfect to decompress from Egypt and transition to Europe.

Much of the time I stayed with a wonderful Dutch family that I met at the Israeli wedding: Eli, Anne, and the twins. We biked around town, watched the World Cup, took a boat ride through the canals, and hiked in the sand dunes beside the North Sea. Over the weekend I met up with Casey for the second time (See my November post: Singapore) and we enjoyed being "tourists." I also visited a few friends from the Netherlands with whom I traveled in Laos and Kenya. I feel very happy to be in familiar surroundings and am even enjoying Holland's rainy weather after dehydrating in the Middle East.

Tomorrow I fly to Madrid where I plan to catch a bus heading West to Salamanca. From there I'll cross into Portugal and work my way down the coast to meet David in Lisbon.

Egypt

The history, ancient architecture, and scenery of Egypt is wonderful if you can get past the "hassle factor." I started in Alexandria, with its cool Mediterranean promenade, modern library, and vibrant nightlife. From there I headed south to Aswan and Luxor: Ancient Egypt Central. The temples (Abu Simbel, Luxor, Philae, and Karnak), museums (Nubian and Luxor) and tombs are just incredible. I couldn't stop thinking how lucky humanity is that these structures, art, and treasures from within have lasted through the millennia.

Egypt, especially super-touristy Upper Egypt, has been one of the more unpleasant places for independent travel. What I mean by "hassle" is that many of the Egyptians you encounter will mislead you, lie outright, and otherwise try to rip you off. I got the feeling that overcharging foreigners is a national sport and just about every transaction turns into a negotiation: "How much? 10 Egyptian Pounds. You must be joking. I know the price is 1 and a half pounds." Eventually you get close to the real price if you stand firm, but finding the right bus, train, buying food, water, and shopping for souvenirs are all a challenge.

At the moment I'm taking a vacation from Egypt by going underwater -- four days scuba diving in the Red Sea at a mostly German resort in Safaga. I am still working out where to go after Egypt but before meeting my friend David in Lisbon, Portugal on June 30. Possibly Ireland (Casey and a cousin are there) or somewhere else that Northwest goes.

Jordan + Israel Parts Two and Three

The two weeks I spent in Israel before leaving for Istanbul didn't feel like enough time to see everyone I wanted to see. So I came back for another few weeks to visit relatives in Haifa, Rosh Pina, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Moshav Hazorim. I even had some extra time for sightseeing in Akko, Tzfat, and Ein Gedi.

Practically every Israeli I told about my travel plans (Jordan and Sinai/Egypt) discouraged me from going but I couldn't resist a short excursion to Petra. One day in Jordan turned into five including a night in the desert at Wadi Rum and a great dive in Aqaba. Jordanians are exceptionally friendly, even toward Americans who clearly came over from Israel.

On my way from Jordan back to Egypt (I'm currently in Alexandria), I stopped in Eilat, Israel one last time for the wedding of my friend Barry's sister. It was beautiful and I splurged on two nights at the posh resort where the event was held. Tonight I'm taking the overnight train to Aswan... I'm excited to see Abu Simbel, the Valley of the Kings, and the Temples of Karnak.

Southwestern and Central Turkey

It's difficult to summarize the eight towns I visited in the two weeks since Istanbul. This country has it all: cute seaside villages (Fethiye, Kaş), rocky mountains with patches of snow, Roman ruins (Selçuk/Ephesus, Olimpos), big urban centers (Antalya, Konya), and some very unusual scenery (Pamukkale, Uçhisar/Cappadocia).

This whirlwind tour was made possible by Turkey's efficient and comfortable bus network with its frequent connections, overnight buses on longer routes, and attendants serving up snacks and the ubiquitous çay (Turkish tea). Many people invited me to sit and relax over çay; several went further to show me around, treat me to their home cooking, and the sweet man at the post office in Konya even bought me a gift! I found Turkish men to be quite handsome and charming.

The last few days in the hilltop town of Uçhisar were a great way to end my time in Turkey -- I relaxed, hiked around, and enjoyed the view from my terrace. I'd love to come back for the people and to spend more time exploring the valleys of Cappadocia. Maybe in September?

Istanbul, Turkey

My friend Leib wanted to spend his birthday week in Istanbul and it was just enough. We saw the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofya church/mosque, Yerbatan Sarnici underground cistern, Topkapi Palace, and five synagogues. Another highlight was a ferry ride up the Bosphoros strait, the boundary between the European and Asian continents. I'd say that Istanbul feels closer to Europe than Asia.

Besides amazing history and architecture, Istanbul also has good (albeit expensive) shopping with its Egyptian and Covered Bazaars and the Taksim square/Istiklal Cadessi pedestrian area.

The people are welcoming and appreciate the few words of Turkish I've learned -- so far I'm enjoying Turkey. Leib has just left for home and I have another two weeks here for Ephesus and Cappadocia before I fly back to Israel.

Israel

Passover in Israel is synonymous with springtime. I celebrated much of the holiday up north in the Galilee hiking through wildflowers with my cousins.

In some respects, the country is more developed than it was a dozen years ago with its new roads, high-speed train, strip malls, and wireless Internet. On the other hand, many things haven't changed and remind me of the difficulties of daily life. Tension is high and my bags were thoroughly searched due to tight security at the border and bus station (for good reason given the suicide bombing in Tel Aviv earlier this week). People are either caring and kind or rude and impatient. Israel is a place of extremes and my feelings reflect ambivalence -- I love it knowing that I would hate living here.

My friend Leib arrived a few days ago and on Sunday we fly to Istanbul for a week. Then I'll have another two weeks in Turkey before I return to Israel for a bit more visiting with the family.

Cairo, Egypt

The first time I passed through Cairo (in late February before Kenya), I barely saw any of the sights. This time I had five days to hit the pyramids, Islamic Cairo, the Egyptian Museum, and ride a felucca boat on the Nile.

Plus I had company: Monique rearranged her flights from Nairobi to include a stop in Cairo. Together with some new local friends, we had a non-stop series of late nights. Most memorable was sitting on the rooftop watching the moon set behind the Pyramids of Giza with one of Monique's cocktails in hand.

Having lived in Israel in 1992, I feel very comfortable in the Middle East. The Egyptian food is familiar (delicious falafel and baba ghanoush) and knowing Hebrew and Israeli slang helps a lot with Arabic. The people are warm, generous, and hospitable, and being in Egypt felt like coming home after slogging through East Africa.

I'm hoping I can catch up on sleep now that Monique and I have said goodbye for the third time. Now that I've arrived in Tel Aviv, I really do feel at home. In time for Passover, it seems appropriate that I traveled overland through the Sinai desert to Israel, where friends and family await.

Logistics Update: Itinerary and Budget

Itinerary

I just arrived in Israel. Leib is meeting me here on April 17, then we head to Turkey together around April 23. After that, I'd like to see Jordan (Petra) and come back to spend more time in Israel and Egypt (diving). From there, I'm thinking about heading to Morocco before moving on to Europe.

Other countries I hope to visit on the way: Spain, Greece, Holland, England, Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Croatia...

Budget

Since early December, I've spent roughly $7,000 across 9 countries and two continents.

I spent about $900 in 17 days in Vietnam ($53/day), including a shipment of new clothes I had tailored for me in Hoi An (a suit, dress, jacket, skirts, shirts, and more). This also includes two guided tours of Halong Bay and the Mekong Delta.

Cambodia was very inexpensive at $36/day ($400 over 11 days). Half of that time I traveled with Karen, so we split costs for hotel and driving around Angkor (but not the hefty $60 entrance fee).

Laos was impossibly cheap at $20/day ($255 for 13 days). While Luang Prabang was average ($15/night for the hotel and $10 for a fancy dinner), overnight stays for $1-$3 in more remote areas helped stretch my Lao Kip.

I passed through Bangkok three times in transit, and spent a total of 15 days and $750 in Thailand ($50/day). That includes two Air Asia flights ($92 for both) and lots of great meals, hotels on the beach, and shopping.

Almost a month in Indonesia (24 days) totaled $1,735 ($72/day). Five days of diving, two nights at the Bali Intercontinental, and seven flights (including one missed flight at $27) brought up the average even though Amber and her family wouldn't let me pay for anything the week we were together.

On the way to Africa I ate well and bought a bunch of stuff in Korea ($135 including a jacket -- it was freezing in Seoul). Three short days in Cairo cost $100.

The past five weeks in East Africa cost $2,780 -- $1,480 over 22 days in Kenya ($67/day) plus $1,300 over 15 days in Tanzania ($87/day). That includes about $900 for 11 days of safari! Safari in Tanzania is almost double the cost of Kenya due to steeper park entry fees. The total also includes a round-trip flight from Cairo for $650 (I miss Air Asia!) and two days of diving (I miss Malaysia!).

Tanzania

After a side trip to the Kenyan coast (Mombasa and Diani Beach), I circled back to Nairobi to meet Monique from San Francisco. We met in Malaysia a few months back and did our diving certification together. (See my November post: Scuba Diving.) Since then, Monique ended her seven month trip through Asia and returned home. Two months later, Monique is traveling yet again in the few weeks before she starts her new job. I have the feeling she'll be planning another trip before the year is out.

It was great to travel with Monique again, especially here. Africa is not as easy as Asia, and flying solo is more of a challenge. We crossed from Kenya into Tanzania and signed up for a four-day safari in Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. Amazing just like my safari in Kenya... and this time we saw leopards and the wildebeest migration! Then we stopped at the base of Kilimanjaro (Moshi) where instead of climbing, we spent the day at the police station reporting a bus scam including the theft of Monique's boots.

We had four relaxing days in Zanzibar before returning to Moshi to retrieve the stolen boots which the police improbably recovered. Now I'm back in Nairobi to see Monique off. In less than a week, I too will be wrapping up my month in East Africa.

African Safari

It only took six flights to get from Southeast Asia (Flores, Indonesia) to Africa (Nairobi, Kenya) with rest stops in Bali, Seoul, and Cairo.

I decided to take some pressure off of my Africa itinerary by concentrating on a small part of East Africa. What better way to kick off my five week stint in Kenya and Tanzania than with a safari? The scenery is OK, but it's the wild animals that are the real attraction and those safari brochures are not exaggerating.

Getting there is part of the adventure: the roads here are horrific and punish vehicles along with their passengers. From Nairobi to Masai Mara takes six hours each way, not including a few stops for minor mechanical repairs. But even before you cross into the Game Reserves, the wildlife sightings begin.

Of course the place is crawling with zebras, buffalo, and antelope (ten types including my personal favorite, the Thomson's gazelle). A bit harder to find are the lions, elephants, giraffes, rhinoceroses, hippopotamuses, and elusive cheetahs. Then there are the birds... we spotted about forty different species without even trying, including flamingos by the thousands, massive eagles, crowned cranes, and the gorgeous lilac breasted rollers. Not to mention the miscellaneous baboons, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, and more.

Frederick, my personal driver/guide/teacher/mechanic/navigator, explained that the animals -- even those lions right next to us -- don't see you as long as you stay inside the vehicle. We drove around for hours identifying animals. I loved riding while standing on the seats, my head and shoulders poking through the open roof. I felt like I was outside... part of the scenery.

Indonesia and Southeast Asia Wrap-up

My last few weeks in Southeast Asia are ending on an upbeat note: wedding festivities in Jakarta Indonesia, a week in Bali with Amber, and scuba diving in Flores.

Five months, nine countries, and less than ten thousand dollars later, below are some of my highlights (in no particular order):

Most friendly kids: Vietnam
Most friendly adults: Indonesia
Most helpful adults (especially considering the language barrier): China
Best karaoke song: Total Eclipse of the Heart, Philippines (sing it, Sue!)
Most relaxing beach: Koh Jum, Thailand
Favorite fruit: (tie) Philippine mangoes and pineapples
Best scenery: Laos
Best temple: Angkor, Cambodia
Best handicraft shopping: Bali, Indonesia
Cleanest city: Singapore
Best ATM: Phnom Penh, Cambodia (dispenses US dollars with no fee)
Best coffee and pan au chocolat: Hanoi, Vietnam
Best clothes shopping: Hoi An, Vietnam
Best shoe shopping: Singapore
Best night craft market: Luang Prabang, Laos
Most fun mode of transport: Jeepneys (Philippines)
Cutest small village: Ban Na, Laos
Best bike ride: Yangshuo, China
Most crazy traffic: Vietnam
Best ancient architecture: Great Wall, China
Best modern architecture: Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai, China
Best diving: Pulau Sipadan, Malaysia
Best sunset: Boracay, Philippines
Best airport: Singapore
Favorite airline: Air Asia
Most fun food: Sticky rice, Laos
Best dim sum: Hong Kong
Best seafood: Cambodia
Best hike: Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia
Best rice terraces: Indonesia (Bali and Flores)
Most fascinating animal: ornate ghost pipe fish (Flores, Indonesia)
Best beer: Beer Lao, Laos
Best night food market: Singapore
Most bizarre item for sale on the street: Power tools (Philippines)

Finally, a short list of places I missed and hope to see another time: Melaka (Peninsular Malaysia), Sarawak (Malaysian Borneo), Similan Islands (Thailand), Sulawesi (Indonesia), Tibet (China), plus Japan and Australia/New Zealand/Fiji.

Tomorrow I'm off to Africa. I land in Cairo and am planning to head south to Kenya and Tanzania for some safari action.

Thailand Post-Tsunami

When I arrived in Phuket, Thailand I was lucky to meet John Moretti. He overheard me asking for directions to Khao Lak and offered me a ride, which turned into a two-day tour of the area hardest hit by the tsunami.

John is one of those rare, inspiring people who says "I should do something" and follows through beyond expectations. He has been working in Thailand for the past three months on his own project www.operationplayground.org as well as with www.airlineamb.org. Both efforts are impressive and make me wonder if I should spend time volunteering in addition to writing checks.

I can see that by coming to Thailand and working here on the ground, John's personal involvement and relationships with the Thai people are almost as important as the playgrounds he builds. He introduced me to a number of tsunami survivors, both Thai and international, and I heard their stories first-hand. I saw that much of the devastation has been cleaned up but there is still much more to be done. Above all, the thing that broke my heart was the refugee camp for orphaned Thai children (www.tsunamirefugees.org).

Laos

The relaxed pace in Laos is such a contrast to its go-getter neighbors (China, Vietnam, and Thailand). The country has no coastline, but its lovely mountain scenery is punctuated by numerous rivers including the Mekong. I rode as many boats as buses (four each) as the rivers provide the only means of transportation to remote villages such as Muang Ngoi Neua.

I spent three days there trekking after stops in Luang Prabang (quaint former capital packed with dozens of Buddhist temples), Vang Vieng (biking and kayaking backpacker hangout), and Vientiane (possibly the slowest national capital on Earth).

Laos is the place in SE Asia to mellow out, with lots of outdoor activities, spiritual places, and colorful villages. Now I'm back in Thailand (Chiang Rai) deciding where to go next before meeting Amber in Jakarta in two weeks.

Cambodia

Cambodia was tough. The magnificence of Angkor is overshadowed in my mind by recent tragedies.

The feeling first started with my arrival in Bangkok at the same time as the one-year anniversary of the tsunami.

Next I got my first glimpse of the poverty and desperation of Cambodia at the overland border crossing with Thailand. The flow of men, women, and children -- the majority working but some begging -- mostly toward wealthier Thailand was unlike anything I had ever seen.

The "major highway" to Siem Reap (the town near Angkor) was unpaved, dusty, and riddled with potholes. The country feels very undeveloped. As much as I loved Angkor, I disliked Siem Reap and the people in it who were constantly hassling me to try to get my business or begging (especially kids but also some land mine victims) -- much more intense than Shanghai and Hanoi put together.

After seeing the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh (site of the former Khmer Rouge S-21 prison) I know I should be more sympathetic. I haven't been to Auschwitz but I imagine the experience is similar. It is hard to believe what horrors took place in Cambodia during the 1970s and 1980s. Cambodia also suffered from US bombings during the Vietnam War. The people have endured a lot of trauma very recently.

On a positive note, I am glad I saw more of Cambodia than Siem Reap. I liked the people much better in the less touristed parts of the country. Phnom Penh was great and the beach at Sihanoukville was quiet and relaxed. Cambodia also serves up the best seafood in Asia.