Singapore

For some reason, I expected Singapore to feel the same as Hong Kong. While they are both developed Western metropolises studded with sky-scrapers and shopping malls, Singapore seems more green, more efficient, and more friendly.

Everything is clean and orderly. The food is fresh and beautiful -- even the hawker centers resemble food courts in upscale malls rather than the standard frenetic Asian night markets. The subway is fast, cheap, and air-conditioned. Taxis are spotless Mercedes sedans (including meters). Stores accept American Express. And the airport has free Internet!

Singapore is the best city in Asia! Maybe staying at the Ritz-Carlton and painting the town red with my friend Casey has something to do with it. Or maybe after Bali I am ready for a big-city fix. Either way, I can't stop telling Casey how much I love it here and am starting to think that I may need to come back after toughing it out on the Vietnam-Laos-Cambodia circuit.

Bali, Indonesia

Bali has been on my list for a long time (one of many that prompted this trip)... and it did not disappoint. My favorite spot was Ubud, a cute inland town with great shopping, excellent food, and a gorgeously landscaped hotel including a pool I had no time to use.

The island is very picturesque. I rented a bike for three days and rode along rice terraces and shop-lined streets stocked with local art and handicrafts. I also hiked part way up Bali's highest and holiest mountain: the Gunung Agung volcano. Finally I did a bit more diving at the Liberty wreck near Amed's rocky beaches. It is sad how quiet Bali is -- most hotels are empty and everyone laments the lack of tourists. What a shame that people are scared away from such a beautiful destination!

Next I'm off to Singapore then Vietnam/Laos/Cambodia. It looks like I may circle back to Indonesia in February. Amber's brother is getting married in Jakarta and I plan to change my ticket so I can meet up with the wedding party. I am constantly struggling with the trade-off between spending more time in one place and moving on to see others... I just don't want to cut the rest of my itinerary short by taking more time in Southeast Asia. Africa will just have to wait!

The Philippines

While I was a bit unsettled about trading time in Indonesia for an unplanned trip to the Philippines, I am so glad I went! Seven of us traveled to the tiny island of Boracay together, where we relaxed on the beach and did a few dives. The Philippines are very different from the rest of Southeast Asia: 7,000+ islands, heavy Spanish and American influences, and Catholic. Manila reminded me of Lima, Peru. The people are extremely friendly and we had great fun riding around in Jeepneys -- old US Army Jeeps which have been converted into colorful public buses.

I've just arrived in Ubud, Bali (Indonesia) where I plan to spend 9 days on the beach, biking, doing a wreck dive, and climbing another volcano. I have mixed feelings about being here after the bombs last month (and in 2002), but so far all seems peaceful and normal. And at 10,000 Indonesian rupiah to the dollar, I am a millionaire (a mere $100 = 1,000,000 Rp)!

Scuba Diving

Regards from Manila! I decided to switch around my plans and go with friends to the Philippines instead of Kalimantan and Sulawesi (Indonesia).

I spent the last few days in Semporna, Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) getting my Open Water and Advanced Open Water PADI certifications. Diving is incredible... very surreal. We did eleven dives -- including several at Sipidan -- where we saw an amazing variety of fish, sharks, coral, sea turtles, starfish, eels, etc.

My dive buddy, Monique from San Francisco, talked me into joining her and a bunch of others on a side trip to the Philippines. We just arrived and tomorrow we head to the beach at Boracay. After that I will visit Indonesia, flying to Bali on the 19th.

Mount Kinabalu

Climbing Mount Kinabalu was the toughest hike I have ever done. It is simply awesome. When I got to the peak (4,101 m/13,455 ft) I was overcome with emotion and burst into tears. It was less about the spectacular view and more about an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. It was a moving experience.

Borneo is a paradise for nature lovers. So far I have traveled in Sabah, the eastern part of Malaysian Borneo. The capital, Kota Kinabalu, is a cute little town on the coast with friendly people and great markets. Next I plan to take a 3-day PADI certification course at Semporna, the gateway to world-class diving at Pulau Sipadan.