Thursday, September 29, 2005

Yangshuo

I'm spending a few days in this small town (finally) which is an hour south of Guilin and also known as "backpacker central." Unfortunately the large number of tourists has made some of the locals less-than-honest... This is the first place where I have felt that people might be trying to take advantage of me. The seemingly friendly greeting "Hello Hello" is always followed by a sales pitch ("Water," "Cold Drink," "Look In"). I guess I expected that all over the country and got used to the Chinese people being genuinely friendly for the most part.

That said, the scenery more than makes up for the people. The town is on the bank of the Li River, surrounded by limestone karsts dotting the countryside. There are a number of small villages which are within biking distance. Yesterday I biked to Moon Hill and along the Yulong river, and today I visited Fuli and Xingping. It is hot... air-con is a must-have!

On Sunday I fly to Hong Kong where I will spend Rosh Hashana with the United Jewish Congregation of HK.

Monday, September 26, 2005

Three Gorges and Chongqing

Chongqing could not be more different from the towns I visited along the Yangtze River: Badong, Wushan, and Fengjie. It is hard to believe that despite the number of Westerners cruising on the river below, uphill I enjoyed celebrity status as the lone American "Meiguo." My independent personality had me traveling upriver on my own, rather than on a packaged cruise tour of the Three Gorges... Definitely a challenge, but it led to some great interactions and experiences.

The three towns are considered "small" -- but I've learned that there is no such thing as a small town in China. These cities have already moved up the mountains in anticipation of the rising water level. I was pleasantly surprised that it doesn't seem that the water level will rise that high -- much of the scenery should remain spectacular.

Chongqing is the most modern, cosmopolitan city so far. It's a booming metropolis, and at night the entire downtown is bathed in neon, reminiscent of Times Square. The people are hip and fashionable. Tonight I head for Guilin.

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

Great Wall and Xian

I'm giving this blog another try. It seems the Chinese government blocks the blog itself, but not the site where I update it... However, the instructions are in Chinese :/

China is incredible. Beijing is a lot like NY -- lots of people, concrete, skyscrapers, even a subway. The Forbidden City is impressive, and I enjoyed the Summer Palace even more. The Great Wall at Simitai is breathtaking -- I climbed from tower to tower, thinking that better views may lie ahead... eventually I had to give up and turn back, having spent hours covering only a fraction of what the eye could see.

Then onto Xian, the old capital and site of the Terracotta Warriors found only 30 years ago. Eight thousand life-sized statues were painstakingly placed underground to accompany Emperor Qin into the afterlife. Crazy.

I think I am allergic to Xian (the air quality is horrible), but overall the food has been fantastic, and the people wonderful. Now I head to Yichang, site of the Three Gorges Dam and gateway to the soon-to-be-destroyed gorges.

It looks as if my departure date for Malaysia is firm, October 14. Sunny (travel agent recommended by Richard) in Beijing has been super-helpful and worked out a great itinerary for me in China... still to come: Guilin, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. A month in China is ambitious, but so far the pace is fine and I feel great.

Who is meeting me in Malaysia?

Thursday, September 15, 2005

Beijing, China

The flight was long (14 hours) and I arrived in Beijing at 2 p.m. on Wednesday (the time difference is 12 hours). So far I've visited the Forbidden City, seen a Chinese Acrobatics show, done some shopping, and went out for drinks on Sanlitun (a.k.a. bar street). Today I'm renting a bike to tool around the city. Beijing is a lot like New York -- lots of people and concrete, but it is very flat and distances are huge. Later I need to work out my China itinerary. I may head to the Great Wall tomorrow.

Friday, September 09, 2005

Packing List and Gear Review

Most useful items picked up along the way
Rain poncho in Vietnam ($1.25). I bought one while I was in Hue around the same time as major flooding due to non-stop rains. Everyone wears these huge sheets of thick plastic with hoods that cover you, your bags, and your bike. The more expensive model has a clear section at the front so your motorbike headlight shines through.

Sarongs/Kangas ($3-$4). These are large rectangular sheets of cotton that are perfect as beach towels. The materials are always fun and colorful; the kanga I bought in Kenya also included a "fortune" written in Swahili. A sarong/kanga can also be used as a dress, skirt, and privacy curtain in youth hostel dorms.

Bags
Jansport Syncline 38 backpack, capacity 2,350 cubic inches ($68 from Campmor). It was the perfect size, easy to carry, and very durable.
Small backpack ($8 in Vietnam). Great for day trips and as an overflow bag I could wear in front.
Small camera bag ($6 in China). Unfashionable but also unpickpocketable.
2 Granite Gear packing cubes (1 large, 1 small). Fantastic for keeping my clothes compact and organized.
2 Granite Gear organizer bags
Small dry bag for storing electronic items
Money belt

Clothes
4 short-sleeve shirts, 2 shorts, 2 long pants, windbreaker, rain poncho, 2 long sleeve shirts, fleece top, swimsuit, baseball cap, Teva sandals, hiking boots ($75 from EMS), 3 pair of thick socks, 5 liner socks, boxer shorts, 5 pair underwear, 2 bras

I found that I felt more comfortable wearing pants everywhere since most places are fairly conservative. Just about all of the clothes were made from synthetic materials (Coolmax, etc.) which meant they dried quickly after washing and were durable. During the trip I replaced my hiking boot inserts (Superfeet) and hiking socks.

Most of the time I was in warm places so I packed few warm clothes. I sent home a too-bulky fleece vest and too-hot pair of hiking pants in Vietnam -- a week before traveling to Sapa in the mountains where it was freezing! In Sapa and to hike Mount Kinabalu I bought two pairs of gloves which I later gave away. In Turkey I picked up a track suit for warmth... also subsequently ditched.

Electronics
Digital camera (Sony DSC-P150). I had the resolution set to 5 megapixels, each photo was roughly 2 MB. The camera was fairly reliable except for in places with high humidity. In humid conditions sometimes the lens would not open when I turned the camera on.

Memory cards (about 2 gigabytes total). When I ran out of memory one of the biggest challenges was burning the photos onto CD-ROMs. I'm not sure yet whether I succeeded in saving all of my pictures. Internet cafes were amazingly reliable for online access but much harder to depend on for photo burning.

Palm Zire 21. Wonderful for keeping track of my finances while on the road (Pocket Quicken $35 from Landware) and having my address book and other saved information handy. The calculator function is also useful. Mostly the Palm was reliable but in hot weather the touch screen did not work. Very inconvenient in Egypt.

Camera accessories: Extra camera battery, camera charger, blank CD/DVD-ROMs. The blank media were not necessary; any internet cafe with CD burning capabilities can provide blank CDs (700 MB) and most cannot handle DVDs (4.7 GB). Usually I paid $1 per CD-ROM and $1/hour for internet access.

iPod shuffle. A lifesaver on long bus rides and in places where I wanted to tune out people who were hassling me (e.g. arriving at bus stations in Asia) -- I just started singing aloud and the taxi drivers ran away.

USB charger. This worked perfectly to recharge both my iPod shuffle and the Palm.

Adapter kit ($30 from Brookstone)

Toiletries
Quick-dry towel, sunscreen, tampons, extended-wear contact lenses, small contact solution, nail clipper, Woolite, toilet paper, hand cream, shampoo, conditioner, comb, toothbrushes, toothpaste, floss, lip balm, nail file, insect repellent, wet wipes

First Aid Kit
Band-aids, iodine, Zithromax, Diamox, Imodium, Cipro, Lariam (anti-Malarial), Aleve, ibuprofen, ace bandage, antibiotic ointment, thermometer, Tums, Pepto Bismol (Plus 7 immunizations: typhoid, yellow fever, Japanese encephalitis, polio, meningitis, hepatitis, tetanus)

Other
2 water bottles. One from Nalgene has lasted for years and never leaked. A second, new bottle (Eddie Bauer from Target, $5) leaked.
Water filter. Unnecessary. In Asia you can use boiled water to make tea, everywhere else bottled water is readily available and much more convenient than filtering/purifying.
Sunglasses, glasses, and glasses case
Books: pocket world atlas, guidebook, reading book, Point It (indispensable in China)
Bandanna, journal, pens, earplugs and eyeshade (key for overnight trips), Swiss Army knife ($36 including a corkscrew and can opener), luggage lock, Coolmax sleep sack, US stamps to give as gifts, multivitamins
2 ATM cards (Commerce gave better rates than Citibank), 4 credit cards (rarely used)