Temples of Angkor

People rave about going to see Angkor Wat in Cambodia, a monumental temple ruin from the 12th century. What I didn't realize is that Angkor (meaning "city") is a massive complex comprising dozens of ruins, less than half of which I could visit in 4+ days.

The temples range in age from the 9th century to the 15th, and vary in style, size, and setting. Angkor Wat is the largest. Others have amazingly preserved carvings and bas-reliefs, interesting architecture, and a few are overgrown with fantastic tree roots adding a "jungle" dimension.

Tomorrow I shift from the past to the present -- from Angkor, ancient capital of the Khmer empire, to Cambodia's current capital, Phnom Penh.

Vietnam

I have always had mixed feelings about traveling to Vietnam because of my country's role in what is locally called "The American War."

Despite my own sense of guilt about US military activity in Indochina, today's Vietnamese do not harbor any negative feelings toward the US or Americans.

The kids are particularly wonderful. They are very friendly and sweet... they wave as you pass by and sing "hello hello." I started in Saigon and worked my way north to Hanoi with a stop in Central Vietnam (Hue and Hoi An). Vietnam is bigger than it looks and has a diversity of scenery (river industry, beaches, big cities, sea with karst formations, rice terraces) and lots of history. Unfortunately, as I headed north, the weather worsened: non-stop rain and flooding in Hue gave way to freezing temperatures in the highlands of Sapa.

I am excited to get back to some warmer climes! Tomorrow I fly to Bangkok to work my way toward Angkor in Cambodia. I also predict a beach in my near future.

Five countries and counting...

I have arrived in Vietnam after spending a week in Singapore. I'm in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC for short, aka Saigon) and so far so good. It reminds me of China, which is an excellent sign.

On the airplane I had some time to review my budget from the past few months. Read on if you are interested in how I've managed to spend less than $6,000 touring five countries in about three months. I've already told you about the $2,000 I spent in China ($65/day)...

Malaysia was a bargain at about $1,500 for nearly a month ($55/day). The biggest expenditures were the Open Water and Advanced Open Water diving certifications (a mere $370 for 12 dives), three nights at the Shangri-La in KL, plus a flight from the Peninsula to Borneo ($90 thanks to Air Asia... I love them!).

A short side trip to the Philippines set me back $450 ($50/day) including a $100 flight (Air Asia comes through again) and another day of diving. The biggest bargain destination so far.

Bali was most pricey ($900 or $100/day) on account of the $300 I spent buying and shipping some unbelievable souvenirs. This total also includes two flights -- Manila to KL and KL to Bali -- plus an expensive overnight at a Marriott near the airport in KL. (There's a story there.)

Singapore is also relatively expensive, where I spent $765 ($95/day) even with three nights at the Ritz-Carlton courtesy of Casey. She also paid for a sensational dinner at the restaurant atop the tallest hotel in town... highly recommended for the food and the views! I spent a few hundred bucks on food and drinks during my week (3 Singapore Slings at Raffles will cost you $12 each). The total also includes an expensive flight from Bali (I had to fly Garuda instead of Air Asia) plus another $150 on shopping plus Singapore Post (three pairs of shoes from Charles & Keith, among other things).

My budget is right on target, and I feel like I'm achieving a good balance between "living like a local" and treating myself to nice meals, mid-range hotels, and lots of purchases. Either way, the money I spend on this trip is the best money I have ever spent.

The current plan is to tour Vietnam starting with the Mekong Delta in the South then head North to Hanoi and environs with a stop or two on the way. Next will be Laos, Cambodia (Angkor Wat), then Bangkok.

Singapore

For some reason, I expected Singapore to feel the same as Hong Kong. While they are both developed Western metropolises studded with sky-scrapers and shopping malls, Singapore seems more green, more efficient, and more friendly.

Everything is clean and orderly. The food is fresh and beautiful -- even the hawker centers resemble food courts in upscale malls rather than the standard frenetic Asian night markets. The subway is fast, cheap, and air-conditioned. Taxis are spotless Mercedes sedans (including meters). Stores accept American Express. And the airport has free Internet!

Singapore is the best city in Asia! Maybe staying at the Ritz-Carlton and painting the town red with my friend Casey has something to do with it. Or maybe after Bali I am ready for a big-city fix. Either way, I can't stop telling Casey how much I love it here and am starting to think that I may need to come back after toughing it out on the Vietnam-Laos-Cambodia circuit.

Bali, Indonesia

Bali has been on my list for a long time (one of many that prompted this trip)... and it did not disappoint. My favorite spot was Ubud, a cute inland town with great shopping, excellent food, and a gorgeously landscaped hotel including a pool I had no time to use.

The island is very picturesque. I rented a bike for three days and rode along rice terraces and shop-lined streets stocked with local art and handicrafts. I also hiked part way up Bali's highest and holiest mountain: the Gunung Agung volcano. Finally I did a bit more diving at the Liberty wreck near Amed's rocky beaches. It is sad how quiet Bali is -- most hotels are empty and everyone laments the lack of tourists. What a shame that people are scared away from such a beautiful destination!

Next I'm off to Singapore then Vietnam/Laos/Cambodia. It looks like I may circle back to Indonesia in February. Amber's brother is getting married in Jakarta and I plan to change my ticket so I can meet up with the wedding party. I am constantly struggling with the trade-off between spending more time in one place and moving on to see others... I just don't want to cut the rest of my itinerary short by taking more time in Southeast Asia. Africa will just have to wait!

The Philippines

While I was a bit unsettled about trading time in Indonesia for an unplanned trip to the Philippines, I am so glad I went! Seven of us traveled to the tiny island of Boracay together, where we relaxed on the beach and did a few dives. The Philippines are very different from the rest of Southeast Asia: 7,000+ islands, heavy Spanish and American influences, and Catholic. Manila reminded me of Lima, Peru. The people are extremely friendly and we had great fun riding around in Jeepneys -- old US Army Jeeps which have been converted into colorful public buses.

I've just arrived in Ubud, Bali (Indonesia) where I plan to spend 9 days on the beach, biking, doing a wreck dive, and climbing another volcano. I have mixed feelings about being here after the bombs last month (and in 2002), but so far all seems peaceful and normal. And at 10,000 Indonesian rupiah to the dollar, I am a millionaire (a mere $100 = 1,000,000 Rp)!

Scuba Diving

Regards from Manila! I decided to switch around my plans and go with friends to the Philippines instead of Kalimantan and Sulawesi (Indonesia).

I spent the last few days in Semporna, Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) getting my Open Water and Advanced Open Water PADI certifications. Diving is incredible... very surreal. We did eleven dives -- including several at Sipidan -- where we saw an amazing variety of fish, sharks, coral, sea turtles, starfish, eels, etc.

My dive buddy, Monique from San Francisco, talked me into joining her and a bunch of others on a side trip to the Philippines. We just arrived and tomorrow we head to the beach at Boracay. After that I will visit Indonesia, flying to Bali on the 19th.

Mount Kinabalu

Climbing Mount Kinabalu was the toughest hike I have ever done. It is simply awesome. When I got to the peak (4,101 m/13,455 ft) I was overcome with emotion and burst into tears. It was less about the spectacular view and more about an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. It was a moving experience.

Borneo is a paradise for nature lovers. So far I have traveled in Sabah, the eastern part of Malaysian Borneo. The capital, Kota Kinabalu, is a cute little town on the coast with friendly people and great markets. Next I plan to take a 3-day PADI certification course at Semporna, the gateway to world-class diving at Pulau Sipadan.

On to Malaysian Borneo

My week traveling through Peninsular Malaysia with my new Dutch friends is at an end. I'm back in KL doing laundry and taking care of other errands after a few days at Taman Negara national park. We did some good hiking but ended up seeing only a flying squirrel, bats, fireflies, and a big rat. The jungle here is more about ambience than actual wildlife sightings.

Tomorrow I fly to Kota Kinabalu to meet up with another new Penang friend to climb Mount Kinabalu. Then I'm hoping the beach at Pulau Sipadan doesn't get rained out!

Penang and Cameron Highlands

It took a few days of culture shock, but I am starting to really like Malaysia. It is a wild mixture of Chinese, Indian, and Malay with a dash of British colonialism thrown in for good measure. Everyone is gearing up for the "holiday season" -- a double whammy of Deepavali for the Hindus (11/1) and Hari Raya Aidilfitri (11/3-4) for the Muslims.

While KL seemed quite conservative, Penang and an area called Cameron Highlands are very relaxed. Penang is filled with backpackers on their way to and from the beaches of southern Thailand. I met some great people with whom I am traveling, and hope to meet up with later in the trip.

The food in Penang is great, the locals are more friendly than the big-city dwellers, and there are colorful walking tours of the colonial, Chinatown, and Little India neighborhoods. While my heart was set on the Perhentian Islands next, it turns out that the monsoon on the east coast has started early this year. Instead I headed up to the Cameron Highlands with Lucy (British), Bjorn and Marjolein (both Dutch). We are relaxing here where it is cool and rainy as three of us gear up for the trip to Taman Negara tomorrow. After that I plan to fly from KL over to Malaysian Borneo.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

I've been acclimating to Malaysia at the gorgeous Shangri-La Hotel. It is taking a bit of getting used to -- things here are so different from China.

There seem to be fewer people around; it is much quieter than China. The people are less friendly even though they all speak English. The fact that Malaysia is a Muslim country is palpable -- many women fully covered, beautiful mosques, the newspaper content. The weather is sultry... tropical and humid, making KL very lush with lots of greenery and trees. You can also find an amazing selection of fruits.

My favorite thing so far is the Petronas Tower at night. I went there my first morning in KL to pick up a Malaysia guidebook (there's a huge shopping mall at its base) and for some reason I was under whelmed by the world's tallest building. But I went back on a whim after dinner and the lighting on the twin towers is magnificent!

Next I plan to head for Penang, Kota Bharu (beach), and Taman Negara (national park and hiking) on Peninsular Malaysia (the part just south of Thailand). Then I will fly over to Kota Kinabalu on Malaysian Borneo (a large island to the east shared with Indonesia) for some more serious hiking and beach-lounging.

Budgeting

For anyone interested in trip logistics... I had some time on the airplane to review my budget and I thought it might interest some of you (you aspiring travelers and accountants know who you are).

During my first month in China/Hong Kong, I spent $2,000. The largest expense was transportation -- not surprising considering how many cities I visited and how large China is. Four flights ($65-$100 each), two overnight trains ($37-$56), four ferries along the Three Gorges ($6-$14 each), countless shorter bus/subway/train/ferry/tram rides (12-50 cents each), plus a few splurges on taxis (I did live in New York after all). A total of $575 getting around, compared to $65 in entry fees to get into major sights.

Next was hotels ($560). They ranged from the $6.25 youth hostel (private room but shared bath) to the swanky Marriott Chongqing ($72). All were very clean and safe, some better located than others. I came to the realization that privacy and air-con are two things I cannot live without at this point in my life.

In third place are souvenirs ($275 + $100 to ship 11 parcels back to the US). Obviously I didn't see any furniture I wanted (nor did I have enough time to have any clothing tailored), but I did pick up some clothes, tea implements, paintings, and lots of small things for myself and others.

Food comes in at fourth place ($330). I could spend $300 on two dinners in NY -- but the food in China is so much better! The most pricey meals were in Hong Kong, where I spent $25-$45 on OK Western food. The best splurge was sushi in Beijing ($16). I had a few $10 "pay for the view" drinks at the Marriott in Chongqing, the Peninsula in Hong Kong, and the Jin Mao Tower in Shanghai. Otherwise, meals ran the gamut from 40 cent back-alley street food with locals to $4-$9 sit-down places.

Finally, let me add that I spent another $50 on phone calls and internet access. Same as a month of Road Runner, but priceless to keep in touch with all of you!

Farewell China

I am back in Beijing to catch flight #2 of my round-the-world ticket: Malaysia. I am sad to leave China. It is a fascinating place with a diversity of sights and wonderful people. I was just starting to figure out some key words in Mandarin -- a really cool but difficult language.

Once I got past the rude welcome of having my camera stolen, Shanghai became one of my favorite cities. There's a sleazy side that I didn't encounter elsewhere: street beggars, people routinely checking garbage cans, "Hello [DVD/watch/bag] Hello." Shanghai is a cross between Beijing and Hong Kong -- more modern than Beijing but not as sophisticated as Hong Kong. The Jin Mao tower is breathtaking, I enjoyed the Yu Yuan gardens, and there's a great area called People's Square with parks, a theater, and museums (the Shanghai Museum is excellent).

Hangzhou is just two hours from Shanghai, and the main attraction there is West Lake (Xi Hu, pictured). The best word I can use to describe it is serene. Many Chinese couples vacation there to stroll around the lake, see the many temples and parks, and relax around town. I rented a bike and rode around (and across the two causeways splitting the lake into sections). Along with Yangshuo, Hangzhou is the most scenic town I visited.

I spent one month in China, yet totally missed vast regions that also sound amazing -- Yunnan, Xinjiang, Tibet, Sichuan -- maybe next trip? Beijing 2008!

Shanghai

OK, I must admit that I plagiarized the photos on this and the previous post. The night I arrived in Shanghai I was deftly pick pocketed and relieved of my camera. I am trying to decide how to best replace it... too bad I just left Hong Kong. That seems like the right place to buy a camera. I'm not sure electronics in China are real, fake, or what.

The bright side is that I am fine. I feel like an idiot -- did I let my guard down because I have felt safe up to this point? Was I not careful enough? I was on a crowded bridge and everyone stopped to let a man take a photo of his two kids. In those 10 seconds, someone behind me was able to unzip my bag and take the camera. Amazing.

I also got to see how the Chinese police operate... not bad... One of the Chinese policemen spoke impeccable English; he was very nice and told me "it's not your fault, these things happen." A translator appeared in short order and we efficiently filed a theft report. They said they would email me when they find the camera -- I'm not holding my breath!

Hong Kong

I did not realize that going from China to Hong Kong is really going to another country. I was not prepared to leave China! I had a bad attitude when I arrived... after an early morning flight from Guilin to Shenzhen China, 3 hours of border crossings, plus another hour on the subway to the Central District. Things are expensive, I was hot, annoyed, and felt overwhelmed and disoriented in the big city.

Thankfully things improved from there. I found a small hostel in Causeway Bay which ended up being a 10-minute walk from High Holiday services. I celebrated the Jewish New Year with the Reform Jewish community of Hong Kong -- most of whom are expatriates. People were very friendly, and I made contacts with people visiting from Singapore and Cape Town.

I went up to the Peak and rode the Star Ferry to enjoy the stunning architecture. I shopped in the Ladies Market (I did need two new shirts and a pair of shoes to wear to synagogue). I rode double-decker buses and the tram around the city as well as the southern part of Hong Kong Island (beautiful mountain scenery and great beaches). And I embraced Hong Kong's Western-ness with McDonald's, Starbucks, and Pizza Hut. Hong Kong is electrifying!

Next I head to Shanghai, then complete my China loop by returning to Beijing (where I will spend Yom Kippur). I guess I need to start getting used to border crossings!

Yangshuo

I'm spending a few days in this small town (finally) which is an hour south of Guilin and also known as "backpacker central." Unfortunately the large number of tourists has made some of the locals less-than-honest... This is the first place where I have felt that people might be trying to take advantage of me. The seemingly friendly greeting "Hello Hello" is always followed by a sales pitch ("Water," "Cold Drink," "Look In"). I guess I expected that all over the country and got used to the Chinese people being genuinely friendly for the most part.

That said, the scenery more than makes up for the people. The town is on the bank of the Li River, surrounded by limestone karsts dotting the countryside. There are a number of small villages which are within biking distance. Yesterday I biked to Moon Hill and along the Yulong river, and today I visited Fuli and Xingping. It is hot... air-con is a must-have!

On Sunday I fly to Hong Kong where I will spend Rosh Hashana with the United Jewish Congregation of HK.

Three Gorges and Chongqing

Chongqing could not be more different from the towns I visited along the Yangtze River: Badong, Wushan, and Fengjie. It is hard to believe that despite the number of Westerners cruising on the river below, uphill I enjoyed celebrity status as the lone American "Meiguo." My independent personality had me traveling upriver on my own, rather than on a packaged cruise tour of the Three Gorges... Definitely a challenge, but it led to some great interactions and experiences.

The three towns are considered "small" -- but I've learned that there is no such thing as a small town in China. These cities have already moved up the mountains in anticipation of the rising water level. I was pleasantly surprised that it doesn't seem that the water level will rise that high -- much of the scenery should remain spectacular.

Chongqing is the most modern, cosmopolitan city so far. It's a booming metropolis, and at night the entire downtown is bathed in neon, reminiscent of Times Square. The people are hip and fashionable. Tonight I head for Guilin.

Great Wall and Xian

I'm giving this blog another try. It seems the Chinese government blocks the blog itself, but not the site where I update it... However, the instructions are in Chinese :/

China is incredible. Beijing is a lot like NY -- lots of people, concrete, skyscrapers, even a subway. The Forbidden City is impressive, and I enjoyed the Summer Palace even more. The Great Wall at Simitai is breathtaking -- I climbed from tower to tower, thinking that better views may lie ahead... eventually I had to give up and turn back, having spent hours covering only a fraction of what the eye could see.

Then onto Xian, the old capital and site of the Terracotta Warriors found only 30 years ago. Eight thousand life-sized statues were painstakingly placed underground to accompany Emperor Qin into the afterlife. Crazy.

I think I am allergic to Xian (the air quality is horrible), but overall the food has been fantastic, and the people wonderful. Now I head to Yichang, site of the Three Gorges Dam and gateway to the soon-to-be-destroyed gorges.

It looks as if my departure date for Malaysia is firm, October 14. Sunny (travel agent recommended by Richard) in Beijing has been super-helpful and worked out a great itinerary for me in China... still to come: Guilin, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. A month in China is ambitious, but so far the pace is fine and I feel great.

Who is meeting me in Malaysia?

Beijing, China

The flight was long (14 hours) and I arrived in Beijing at 2 p.m. on Wednesday (the time difference is 12 hours). So far I've visited the Forbidden City, seen a Chinese Acrobatics show, done some shopping, and went out for drinks on Sanlitun (a.k.a. bar street). Today I'm renting a bike to tool around the city. Beijing is a lot like New York -- lots of people and concrete, but it is very flat and distances are huge. Later I need to work out my China itinerary. I may head to the Great Wall tomorrow.

Packing List and Gear Review

Most useful items picked up along the way
Rain poncho in Vietnam ($1.25). I bought one while I was in Hue around the same time as major flooding due to non-stop rains. Everyone wears these huge sheets of thick plastic with hoods that cover you, your bags, and your bike. The more expensive model has a clear section at the front so your motorbike headlight shines through.

Sarongs/Kangas ($3-$4). These are large rectangular sheets of cotton that are perfect as beach towels. The materials are always fun and colorful; the kanga I bought in Kenya also included a "fortune" written in Swahili. A sarong/kanga can also be used as a dress, skirt, and privacy curtain in youth hostel dorms.

Bags
Jansport Syncline 38 backpack, capacity 2,350 cubic inches ($68 from Campmor). It was the perfect size, easy to carry, and very durable.
Small backpack ($8 in Vietnam). Great for day trips and as an overflow bag I could wear in front.
Small camera bag ($6 in China). Unfashionable but also unpickpocketable.
2 Granite Gear packing cubes (1 large, 1 small). Fantastic for keeping my clothes compact and organized.
2 Granite Gear organizer bags
Small dry bag for storing electronic items
Money belt

Clothes
4 short-sleeve shirts, 2 shorts, 2 long pants, windbreaker, rain poncho, 2 long sleeve shirts, fleece top, swimsuit, baseball cap, Teva sandals, hiking boots ($75 from EMS), 3 pair of thick socks, 5 liner socks, boxer shorts, 5 pair underwear, 2 bras

I found that I felt more comfortable wearing pants everywhere since most places are fairly conservative. Just about all of the clothes were made from synthetic materials (Coolmax, etc.) which meant they dried quickly after washing and were durable. During the trip I replaced my hiking boot inserts (Superfeet) and hiking socks.

Most of the time I was in warm places so I packed few warm clothes. I sent home a too-bulky fleece vest and too-hot pair of hiking pants in Vietnam -- a week before traveling to Sapa in the mountains where it was freezing! In Sapa and to hike Mount Kinabalu I bought two pairs of gloves which I later gave away. In Turkey I picked up a track suit for warmth... also subsequently ditched.

Electronics
Digital camera (Sony DSC-P150). I had the resolution set to 5 megapixels, each photo was roughly 2 MB. The camera was fairly reliable except for in places with high humidity. In humid conditions sometimes the lens would not open when I turned the camera on.

Memory cards (about 2 gigabytes total). When I ran out of memory one of the biggest challenges was burning the photos onto CD-ROMs. I'm not sure yet whether I succeeded in saving all of my pictures. Internet cafes were amazingly reliable for online access but much harder to depend on for photo burning.

Palm Zire 21. Wonderful for keeping track of my finances while on the road (Pocket Quicken $35 from Landware) and having my address book and other saved information handy. The calculator function is also useful. Mostly the Palm was reliable but in hot weather the touch screen did not work. Very inconvenient in Egypt.

Camera accessories: Extra camera battery, camera charger, blank CD/DVD-ROMs. The blank media were not necessary; any internet cafe with CD burning capabilities can provide blank CDs (700 MB) and most cannot handle DVDs (4.7 GB). Usually I paid $1 per CD-ROM and $1/hour for internet access.

iPod shuffle. A lifesaver on long bus rides and in places where I wanted to tune out people who were hassling me (e.g. arriving at bus stations in Asia) -- I just started singing aloud and the taxi drivers ran away.

USB charger. This worked perfectly to recharge both my iPod shuffle and the Palm.

Adapter kit ($30 from Brookstone)

Toiletries
Quick-dry towel, sunscreen, tampons, extended-wear contact lenses, small contact solution, nail clipper, Woolite, toilet paper, hand cream, shampoo, conditioner, comb, toothbrushes, toothpaste, floss, lip balm, nail file, insect repellent, wet wipes

First Aid Kit
Band-aids, iodine, Zithromax, Diamox, Imodium, Cipro, Lariam (anti-Malarial), Aleve, ibuprofen, ace bandage, antibiotic ointment, thermometer, Tums, Pepto Bismol (Plus 7 immunizations: typhoid, yellow fever, Japanese encephalitis, polio, meningitis, hepatitis, tetanus)

Other
2 water bottles. One from Nalgene has lasted for years and never leaked. A second, new bottle (Eddie Bauer from Target, $5) leaked.
Water filter. Unnecessary. In Asia you can use boiled water to make tea, everywhere else bottled water is readily available and much more convenient than filtering/purifying.
Sunglasses, glasses, and glasses case
Books: pocket world atlas, guidebook, reading book, Point It (indispensable in China)
Bandanna, journal, pens, earplugs and eyeshade (key for overnight trips), Swiss Army knife ($36 including a corkscrew and can opener), luggage lock, Coolmax sleep sack, US stamps to give as gifts, multivitamins
2 ATM cards (Commerce gave better rates than Citibank), 4 credit cards (rarely used)