The Trip by the Numbers

It is hard to summarize a year's worth of amazing experiences into one "favorite place" or "most important thing I learned" or "best story." For my last post, I hope this list provides a bit of flavor for the depth and breadth of my travels:

- Total countries: 30 (8 I had visited previously, 22 were new to me)
- Flights: 39
- Missed flights: 1
- Times I checked my bag for a flight: All but once
- Times my bag got lost: 0
- Free flights using frequent flier miles: 8 (including 6 with my round-the-world ticket)
- Overnight trips: 20 (10 by train, 6 by bus, and 4 by ferry)
- Nights spent in airports: 1
- Bus breakdowns: 2
- Boat breakdowns: 2
- CDs burned with pictures: 20 (18 CD-ROMs plus 2 DVD-ROMs)
- Number of pictures: 4,250
- Unreadable CDs: 2
- Total pictures lost due to data issues: 10 (backups come in handy)
- Blog posts: 49
- Yahoo! group members: 43
- Friends and family I met up with while traveling: 10
- Friends I made on the trip who I met again in another place: 13
- Books read: At least 20
- Guidebooks used: 10 (7 were Lonely Planet)
- Places visited that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List: 52
- Places that Lonely Planet says are famous for being in a James Bond movie: 3
- Scuba dives: 39 (in 9 places)
- 4,000+ meter peaks climbed: 2
- African game parks visited: 6
- Hollywood movies seen in a theater: 6
- Weddings attended: 2
- Synagogues where I attended services: 7
- Packages mailed to the US: 36
- Packages lost: 0 (though an envelope from Cairo arrived with a hole in the corner and a missing Swiss Army knife)
- Visits to a police station: 4
- Visits to a US embassy: 2
- Visits to a health clinic/ER: 2 (both accompanying fellow travelers)
- Times I had food poisoning: 2
- Times I was seasick: 2
- ATM withdrawals: 159
- Problems with ATM machines: 1
- Foreign currencies: 26
- Credit card transactions: 52
- Cash advances on my credit card: Once by accident

Itinerary Wrap-up

Below are details on the thirty countries I visited in the thirteen months between September 2005 and October 2006.

1 China: September 13-October 14, 2005
Beijing, Simatai (Great Wall), Xian, Yichang-Badong-Wushan-Fengjie-Chongqing (Three Gorges), Guilin-Yangshuo, Hong Kong, Shanghai/Hangzhou, Beijing
2 Malaysia: October 14-November 11
Peninsular Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur, Penang/Georgetown, Taman Negara), Malaysian Borneo (Kota Kinabalu, Mount Kinabalu, Semporna)
3 Philippines: November 11-19 (Manila, Boracay, Taal Volcano)
4 Indonesia: November 20-29 and January 31-February 22
Bali (Ubud, Besakih/Gunung Agung, Amed/Tulamben, Kuta/Jimbaran), Bintan, Jakarta, Flores (Maumere, Moni)
5 Singapore: November 29-December 6 and January 30
6 Vietnam: December 6-22
Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) aka Saigon, Mekong Delta, Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa
7 Thailand: December 22-23 and January 3-7 and January 21-29 (Bangkok, Pattaya, Chiang Rai, Khao Lak, Koh Jum)
8 Cambodia: December 24-January 2, 2006 (Siem Reap/Angkor, Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville)
9 Laos: January 8-20 (Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Muang Ngoi Neua)
10 Kenya: February 28-March 13 and March 28-April 4
Nairobi, Lake Nakuru, Masai Mara, Amboseli, Mombasa, Diani Beach, Lake Naivasha, Nanyuki
11 Tanzania: March 14-27
Arusha, Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Moshi, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar
12 Egypt: February 25-27 and April 5-9 and June 7-20
Cairo, Alexandria, Aswan, Luxor, Safaga
13 Israel: April 10-23 and May 15-30 and June 5-6
Tel Aviv, Rosh Pina, Jerusalem, Haifa, Moshav Hazorim, Akko, Tzfat, Ein Gedi, Eilat
14 Turkey: April 24-May 14
Istanbul, Selçuk, Pamukkale, Fethiye, Kaş, Olimpos, Antalya, Konya, Uçhisar
15 Jordan: May 31-June 4 (Petra, Wadi Rum, Aqaba)
16 Holland: June 21-26 and August 4-5 (Amsterdam)
17 Spain: June 27 (Salamanca) and July 8-9 (Seville) and October 13-23 (Madrid, Barcelona)
18 Portugal: June 28-July 7 (Porto, Leiria, Lisbon, Sintra, Lagos)
19 Morocco: July 10-24 (Tetouan, Chauoen, Fes, Casablanca, El Jadida, Jebel Toubkal, Marrakech)
20 Belgium: July 25-27 (Brussels, Namur, Rochefort)
21 France: July 28-August 2 (Reims, Paris)
22 England: August 3 and August 14-19 (London, Ingleton)
23 Switzerland: August 6-13 (Montreux, Murren, Luzern, Zurich)
24 Greece: August 20-September 11
Athens, Crete (Hania, Rethymno, Iraklio), Santorini (Oia), Folegandros, Sifnos, Serifos, Syros, Mykonos, Pelion Peninsula/Horefto, Meteora/Kalabaka, Thessaloniki
25 Bulgaria: September 12-15 (Sofia, Plovdiv, Veliko Târnovo)
26 Romania: September 16-21 (Bucharest, Sinaia, Braşov, Sighişoara)
27 Hungary: September 22-23 (Budapest)
28 Slovakia: September 24-29 (Bratislava, Terchova, Levoča, Starý Smokovec)
29 Poland: September 30-October 9 (Zakopane, Kraków, Rzeszow, Zamość, Biecz)
30 Czech Republic: October 10-12 (Prague)

Budget Wrap-up

If I decide to write a book about my trip, I could give it the boring title "Around the World on $75 a Day." In the final calculus I spent roughly $30,000 over 400 days... a lot less than I anticipated.

I feel that I struck a good balance between saving money (e.g. my round-the-world airline ticket cost a mere $420 in taxes and fees thanks to frequent flier miles) and splurging on nice hotels (e.g. in Eilat and Bali), activities (e.g. scuba diving and safaris), and purchases (I bought enough gifts to ship thirty-six packages to the US).

The cheapest country was Laos ($20/day) as compared to super-pricey Switzerland at $193/day. The weakest currency was the Vietnamese Dong (I was rich with $1 = 16,000 VND) while England's Pound was the strongest (£1 = $1.88). I spent the most time -- one month each -- in Indonesia, Israel, and China.

Below is a country-by-country summary:

1 China $2,000 for 31 days ($65/day)
2 Malaysia $1,500 for 27 days ($55/day)
3 Philippines $450 for 9 days ($50/day)
4 Indonesia $2,635 for 33 days ($80/day)
5 Singapore $765 for 8 days ($95/day)
6 Vietnam $900 for 17 days ($53/day)
7 Cambodia $400 for 11 days ($36/day)
8 Laos $255 for 13 days ($20/day)
9 Thailand $750 for 15 days ($50/day)
10 Egypt $1,265 for 25 days ($51/day)
11 Israel $1,225 for 32 days ($38/day)
12 Turkey $1,435 for 22 days ($65/day)
13 Jordan $215 for 5 days ($43/day)
14 Kenya $1,480 for 22 days ($67/day)
15 Tanzania $1,300 for 15 days ($87/day)
16 Holland $486 for 9 days ($54/day)
17 Spain $1,052 for 13 days ($81/day)
18 Portugal $1,182 for 10 days ($118/day)
19 Morocco $523 for 14 days ($37/day)
20 Belgium $548 for 4 days ($136/day)
21 France $709 for 6 days ($118/day)
22 England $790 for 7 days ($113/day)
23 Switzerland $1,350 for 7 days ($193/day)
24 Greece $2,415 for 23 days ($105/day)
25 Bulgaria $130 for 4 days ($32/day)
26 Romania $295 for 6 days ($49/day)
27 Hungary $328 for 2 days ($164/day)
28 Slovakia $230 for 6 days ($39/day)
29 Poland $412 for 9 days ($46/day)
30 Czech Republic $375 for 3 days ($125/day)

Budget Update: Eastern Europe and Greece

The last leg of my journey cost about $5,000 over nine weeks.

My single biggest expense of the entire year was $875 for a weeklong yacht cruise in the Greek islands... and it proved to be one of my worst experiences. With this splurge, Greece added up to $2,415 for 23 days ($105/day).

Bulgaria was the cheapest of the bunch where I spent $130 over 4 days ($32/day). In many Eastern European countries beer really is cheaper than water.

Six days in Romania worked out to only $49/day ($295 total), super-cheap considering all of the towns I visited.

Two days of Jewish holidays in Hungary totaled $328 ($164/day) because I treated myself to two nights at the Budapest Marriott.

Back on the budget trail, Slovakia was $39/day ($230 over 6 days) including a classical music concert ($3.60) and travel through the countryside.

Poland came to $410 for nine days ($46/day) including car rental and gas but excluding damage from Eduardo (I'd rather not think about it).

Czech Republic was an expensive $125/day (three days in Prague) where I stayed in a nice hotel instead of a youth hostel and did a bit of shopping. Things in general are not cheap due to the tourist factor.

Finally, my last week in Spain cost $700 ($70/day for 10 days) including some new clothes and lots of sangria ($12 per pitcher).

Barcelona, Spain

This last travel entry is being posted from the comfort of a friend's apartment in Manhattan. A few days in Madrid plus a week in Barcelona were not as relaxing as I had hoped. I entertained myself with flamenco along with delicious tapas, washed down with plentiful sangria. It was a bit too cold for the beaches but the sunshine was pleasant for walking around town marveling at the creative genius of architect Gaudí. To me, his buildings, parks, and little touches to the city will always be the highlight of Barcelona.

I also expended a lot of energy with the police and US embassy going after Eduardo the professional con artist. Long story short, I discovered that he also stole my credit card numbers and -- to my great frustration -- ended up being set free on a technicality after being caught by Spanish immigration. Perhaps now I am more sensitive to thievery, but Barcelona (especially the ultra-tourist La Rambla zone) is rife with pickpockets/bag snatchers and much seedier than I remembered. Suffice it to say that I am ecstatic to be home.

Prague, Czech Republic

I ended my jaunt through Eastern Europe on a high note with Prague. While I expected the city to be similar to the other big cities I visited in the region (such as Budapest), it is more compact, more fun, and is gorgeous everywhere you look.

Unfortunately, it is also packed with tourists (even in low season) and consequently is the rip-off capital of Europe. It has been quite a while since I have been overcharged while buying train tickets, subway tickets, and burning CDs.

In addition to these little irritants, I "lost" my ATM card and in the process learned that Eduardo -- my travel companion in Poland and Jordan -- is a con artist. It has been an experience talking to police and immigration officers in Madrid, Spain with my limited Spanish. I am certain that these are signs that my trip is winding down. For now I think I'll take it easy for awhile in Barcelona and maybe Mallorca before wrapping up this trip with a flight back to the USA.

Poland

My week in Poland was intense. As a country, I loved it: the people are welcoming, the Tatra Mountains (near Zakopane) and the countryside are pretty, and the old town centers are as charming as any in Europe (Kraków, Zamość, and Lublin). But Yom Kippur, the most solemn day of the Jewish year, was a good introduction to Kraków. Services were awful and I saw firsthand how the neighborhood that was once the heart of a vibrant Jewish Europe is now lifeless.

Next I visited two concentration camps: Majdanek (near Lublin) was smaller and quieter than Auschwitz (near Kraków) and both were powerful in different ways. The only evidence that Jews ever lived in my grandparents' hometown of Żółkiewka is a small memorial in the park. Nearby the small town of Izbica has an old Jewish cemetery (now there are only fragments of headstones) that was also the site of executions and several mass graves.

Thankfully I had company: my friend Eduardo and I rented a car together for the tour. He and I met in Petra, Jordan a few months ago; now we're in Prague for a few days.

Budapest, Hungary and Slovakia

Despite my self-imposed rule against "stealth visits," Hungary only got two days... but they were fabulously spent on Budapest. The city is grand and sophisticated, and high holiday services at two different synagogues (including the stunning Dohány) were moving. Two nights at the Marriott right on the Danube in the middle of everything didn't hurt either.

Bratislava, Slovakia has a lovely old town, but the highlight was a hockey match where I happened to sit next to the father of one of the players. He was all smiles when the home team HC Slovan beat Zvolen two to zip. From there I headed East to Terchova (base for a day hiking in the Malá Fatra mountains) and Levoča (lovely town near Slovakia's largest castle and on the way to the High Tatra mountains bordering Poland).

Today I crossed into Poland where I plan to attend Yom Kippur services in Krakow. After that I am bracing myself for a look at Poland's dark history with its Jews including my own grandparents.

Bulgaria and Romania

I buzzed through Bulgaria in a few days en route to Romania, pausing long enough to meet some of my uncle Rudy's relatives in Sofia (sedate capital) and Plovdiv (quieter small town). The last stop was delightful Veliko Târnovo, a medieval former capital set on a hillside above a river, shadowed by a huge citadel.

Romania's capital, Bucharest, has an incredible array of architecture -- from the massive civic Palace of Parliament and its fountain-lined boulevard to art deco to 18th century brick churches to modern glass hotels. Some of the buildings look like they belong in Paris, including a copy of the Arc de Triomphe!

When you get to the mountains of Transylvania and the towns of Sinaia, Braşov, and Sighişoara, medieval castles and fortresses dominate. Romania seems to have more in common with Western Europe than Bulgaria. The castles and cable cars remind me of Switzerland, and the language sounds closer to Italian or French (whereas Bulgaria feels more "post-Communist" and they are still using the Russian Cyrillic alphabet).

Tonight I'm off to Budapest, Hungary to celebrate Rosh Hashana at Europe's largest synagogue.

Greece

It is hard to describe the way a country can smell so good. It's the hanging vines of jasmine, roses, the anise in the national drink called ouzo, thyme, rosemary, and other unidentifiable herbs.

I met up with Marion and Yiorgos in Athens (the Acropolis/Parthenon and archaeological museum are impressive) then took a ferry to Crete (the old port at Hania is adorable). From there I made my way to Santorini and the spectacular town of Oia perched on the edge of a volcanic caldera.

The week yachting around the Cyclades Islands was a huge disappointment, mostly because my captain turned out to be one of the most unpleasant people I met in the past year (that says a lot about him but nothing about Greeks -- he is French). Yiorgos warned me that I might not get along with the other passengers... I never dreamed that it would be the skipper who turned out to be a nightmare!

After Mykonos I headed back to the mainland, with stops in the lush Pelion Peninsula and breathtaking Meteora (monasteries built atop rock pinnacles). Now I'm at my final destination in Northern Greece: the second largest city of Thessaloniki. Tonight I head to Sofia, Bulgaria.

Budget Update: W. Europe + Morocco

So much for budget travel. If you plan to quit your job and really need to stretch your dollar, I would recommend heading for Asia! But saving money wasn't my main objective and I planned for some expensive countries.

I am amazed that I managed to while away almost seven weeks in Western Europe, which wasn't really part of my original itinerary. I don't regret seeing friends old and new, traveling with my niece, and seeing some familiar places from a different angle. I breezed through seven countries in Western Europe: the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, Belgium, France, Switzerland, and England. To simplify matters I will give you the overall damage: $6,210 over 46 days ($135/day).

The total includes six flights (don't ask) and one swank Eurostar train from Paris to London via the Chunnel ($90). In many cases, flying with a budget airline like easyJet was cheaper than the train. For example, I paid $120 for a side-trip by train from London to Central England whereas $105 flew me one-way from Zurich to London.

Switzerland is a different story: $300 bought me unlimited train, bus, and boat travel for eight days (plus entry to most museums), plus they are so kid-friendly that my niece came along for free! Also providing a boost to my bottom line were friends who let me stay with them in Amsterdam and London (thanks to the Dutch Vlessings and "karaoke Sue") and sharing some costs with David in Portugal.

To end on a positive note for cheapskates who love a good bargain (me!), Morocco was super-cheap at $37/day ($540 over 14 days).

Switzerland

After a few days each in Belgium and France, I picked up my niece Eliana in London and we took off for a weekend in Amsterdam plus a week in Switzerland. Our main goal was walking in the Swiss Alps: the Bernese Oberland near Interlaken. There we rode a train to the snowy "Top of Europe" at Jungfrau and hiked alongside grazing cows near Murren and Wengen.

The Swiss scenery is stunning and getting around is a breeze with the world's most efficient and punctual transportation system. I'm usually not into "sightseeing by train" but the views from the scenic trains really are wonderful. Other stops included Montreux (on Lake Geneva with cheese and chocolate factories nearby) and Luzern (charming old town). We also happened to catch two of Europe's big summer festivals on the weekends: the floating Gay Pride parade in Amsterdam and Zurich's techno-music Street Parade.

Getting my niece back home from Heathrow yesterday was tough with the terrorist scare, but she made it and now I'm in London visiting friends. In a week I head to Athens and the final leg of my trip: Eastern Europe.

Morocco

It was awesome riding the ferry from Europe to Africa across the Straits of Gibraltar. Morocco is an over stimulating mixture of French, Arab, Berber, and Spanish cultures, and the litter and broken down buses remind me that I'm in Africa. People (including the women) are very friendly, though the men are too much... always calling out "ça va?" (how are you? in French) and sometimes trying to follow me.

Before ending in Marrakech, stops along the way included Chaouen (cute blue-painted town in the Rif Mountains) and Casablanca (hip, cosmopolitan city where I caught a Moroccan rap concert). I also laid back with the fun beach atmosphere in El Jadida and spent three days trekking in the High Atlas mountains, the high point of which was another 4,000+ meter peak.

Marrakech is wonderful and embodies what you would imagine about Morocco. The rust-colored medina (old town) is a maze of alleys filled with shops, craftsmen at work, and life in action. The main square turns into a circus as the sun sets, with food stalls, juice stands, and entertainers competing for the crowd's attention. Someone will take your picture with a snake, paint your hands with henna, or tell your fortune. Otherwise you can just stand back and watch the scene of dancers, musicians, or even a boxing match.

This afternoon I fly to Brussels, where I rejoin the Western world and make my way toward Switzerland.

Portugal

I arrived in Lisbon just in time to meet David, a friend from DC. We spent a week in the capital and in a super-cute small town in the mountains called Sintra. I also fit in a few other towns on both ends of David's trip: Porto, Leiria, and Lagos.

Lisbon felt like the "San Francisco of Europe." It's located in the hills near the ocean, complete with streetcars and a bridge painted in a strange reddish hue. We needed several days to explore all of the neighborhoods and watch the Portugal vs. England football match. The highlight was joining the victory party along the main avenue and monument. Porto was one of my favorites -- a riverside town from the Middle Ages filled with Baroque architecture also famous for its Port wine.

A few days in Spain also worked into the itinerary, including Salamanca, a small university town near Madrid, and Seville. Morocco here I come!

Middle East Budget

After nine months I think I finally hit the $20,000 mark. It took only $4,000 to get me through two and a half months in the Middle East:

I already mentioned the $100 I spent in three days in Egypt at the end of February. During my five days in Cairo in April partying and sightseeing with Monique I spent another $265, including a $26 horse ride around the pyramids. Finally, the last two weeks in Egypt cost about $800, including four days of diving and lodging at the Holiday Inn Resort in Safaga ($450). That comes to a total of $1,165 over 22 days ($53/day), super-cheap even with the occasional Egyptian rip-off. Especially easy on the wallet were the ten cent falafel sandwiches and five cent bus rides.

Three separate visits to Israel added up to a bit more than a month, most of that time staying with relatives. $1,190 over 32 days ($37/day) included splitting some car rental plus gasoline costs with Leib ($185) and two nights at a resort in Eilat ($250).

A week in Istanbul with Leib and two weeks traveling around Turkey cost $1,435 ($65/day over 22 days). The round-trip flight from Israel was only $300. Food was the biggest cost after arriving, adding up to almost $400.

Finally, five days in Jordan came to $215 ($43/day), including a $20 entry fee to Petra and a dive in Aqaba ($29).

Amsterdam, the Netherlands

After a nightmare trying to change my round-the-world ticket in Cairo, I managed to get a last-minute flight on KLM to Amsterdam. It turns out that I have a lot of friends here and six days were perfect to decompress from Egypt and transition to Europe.

Much of the time I stayed with a wonderful Dutch family that I met at the Israeli wedding: Eli, Anne, and the twins. We biked around town, watched the World Cup, took a boat ride through the canals, and hiked in the sand dunes beside the North Sea. Over the weekend I met up with Casey for the second time (See my November post: Singapore) and we enjoyed being "tourists." I also visited a few friends from the Netherlands with whom I traveled in Laos and Kenya. I feel very happy to be in familiar surroundings and am even enjoying Holland's rainy weather after dehydrating in the Middle East.

Tomorrow I fly to Madrid where I plan to catch a bus heading West to Salamanca. From there I'll cross into Portugal and work my way down the coast to meet David in Lisbon.

Egypt

The history, ancient architecture, and scenery of Egypt is wonderful if you can get past the "hassle factor." I started in Alexandria, with its cool Mediterranean promenade, modern library, and vibrant nightlife. From there I headed south to Aswan and Luxor: Ancient Egypt Central. The temples (Abu Simbel, Luxor, Philae, and Karnak), museums (Nubian and Luxor) and tombs are just incredible. I couldn't stop thinking how lucky humanity is that these structures, art, and treasures from within have lasted through the millennia.

Egypt, especially super-touristy Upper Egypt, has been one of the more unpleasant places for independent travel. What I mean by "hassle" is that many of the Egyptians you encounter will mislead you, lie outright, and otherwise try to rip you off. I got the feeling that overcharging foreigners is a national sport and just about every transaction turns into a negotiation: "How much? 10 Egyptian Pounds. You must be joking. I know the price is 1 and a half pounds." Eventually you get close to the real price if you stand firm, but finding the right bus, train, buying food, water, and shopping for souvenirs are all a challenge.

At the moment I'm taking a vacation from Egypt by going underwater -- four days scuba diving in the Red Sea at a mostly German resort in Safaga. I am still working out where to go after Egypt but before meeting my friend David in Lisbon, Portugal on June 30. Possibly Ireland (Casey and a cousin are there) or somewhere else that Northwest goes.

Jordan + Israel Parts Two and Three

The two weeks I spent in Israel before leaving for Istanbul didn't feel like enough time to see everyone I wanted to see. So I came back for another few weeks to visit relatives in Haifa, Rosh Pina, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Moshav Hazorim. I even had some extra time for sightseeing in Akko, Tzfat, and Ein Gedi.

Practically every Israeli I told about my travel plans (Jordan and Sinai/Egypt) discouraged me from going but I couldn't resist a short excursion to Petra. One day in Jordan turned into five including a night in the desert at Wadi Rum and a great dive in Aqaba. Jordanians are exceptionally friendly, even toward Americans who clearly came over from Israel.

On my way from Jordan back to Egypt (I'm currently in Alexandria), I stopped in Eilat, Israel one last time for the wedding of my friend Barry's sister. It was beautiful and I splurged on two nights at the posh resort where the event was held. Tonight I'm taking the overnight train to Aswan... I'm excited to see Abu Simbel, the Valley of the Kings, and the Temples of Karnak.

Southwestern and Central Turkey

It's difficult to summarize the eight towns I visited in the two weeks since Istanbul. This country has it all: cute seaside villages (Fethiye, Kaş), rocky mountains with patches of snow, Roman ruins (Selçuk/Ephesus, Olimpos), big urban centers (Antalya, Konya), and some very unusual scenery (Pamukkale, Uçhisar/Cappadocia).

This whirlwind tour was made possible by Turkey's efficient and comfortable bus network with its frequent connections, overnight buses on longer routes, and attendants serving up snacks and the ubiquitous çay (Turkish tea). Many people invited me to sit and relax over çay; several went further to show me around, treat me to their home cooking, and the sweet man at the post office in Konya even bought me a gift! I found Turkish men to be quite handsome and charming.

The last few days in the hilltop town of Uçhisar were a great way to end my time in Turkey -- I relaxed, hiked around, and enjoyed the view from my terrace. I'd love to come back for the people and to spend more time exploring the valleys of Cappadocia. Maybe in September?

Istanbul, Turkey

My friend Leib wanted to spend his birthday week in Istanbul and it was just enough. We saw the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofya church/mosque, Yerbatan Sarnici underground cistern, Topkapi Palace, and five synagogues. Another highlight was a ferry ride up the Bosphoros strait, the boundary between the European and Asian continents. I'd say that Istanbul feels closer to Europe than Asia.

Besides amazing history and architecture, Istanbul also has good (albeit expensive) shopping with its Egyptian and Covered Bazaars and the Taksim square/Istiklal Cadessi pedestrian area.

The people are welcoming and appreciate the few words of Turkish I've learned -- so far I'm enjoying Turkey. Leib has just left for home and I have another two weeks here for Ephesus and Cappadocia before I fly back to Israel.

Israel

Passover in Israel is synonymous with springtime. I celebrated much of the holiday up north in the Galilee hiking through wildflowers with my cousins.

In some respects, the country is more developed than it was a dozen years ago with its new roads, high-speed train, strip malls, and wireless Internet. On the other hand, many things haven't changed and remind me of the difficulties of daily life. Tension is high and my bags were thoroughly searched due to tight security at the border and bus station (for good reason given the suicide bombing in Tel Aviv earlier this week). People are either caring and kind or rude and impatient. Israel is a place of extremes and my feelings reflect ambivalence -- I love it knowing that I would hate living here.

My friend Leib arrived a few days ago and on Sunday we fly to Istanbul for a week. Then I'll have another two weeks in Turkey before I return to Israel for a bit more visiting with the family.

Cairo, Egypt

The first time I passed through Cairo (in late February before Kenya), I barely saw any of the sights. This time I had five days to hit the pyramids, Islamic Cairo, the Egyptian Museum, and ride a felucca boat on the Nile.

Plus I had company: Monique rearranged her flights from Nairobi to include a stop in Cairo. Together with some new local friends, we had a non-stop series of late nights. Most memorable was sitting on the rooftop watching the moon set behind the Pyramids of Giza with one of Monique's cocktails in hand.

Having lived in Israel in 1992, I feel very comfortable in the Middle East. The Egyptian food is familiar (delicious falafel and baba ghanoush) and knowing Hebrew and Israeli slang helps a lot with Arabic. The people are warm, generous, and hospitable, and being in Egypt felt like coming home after slogging through East Africa.

I'm hoping I can catch up on sleep now that Monique and I have said goodbye for the third time. Now that I've arrived in Tel Aviv, I really do feel at home. In time for Passover, it seems appropriate that I traveled overland through the Sinai desert to Israel, where friends and family await.

Logistics Update: Itinerary and Budget

Itinerary

I just arrived in Israel. Leib is meeting me here on April 17, then we head to Turkey together around April 23. After that, I'd like to see Jordan (Petra) and come back to spend more time in Israel and Egypt (diving). From there, I'm thinking about heading to Morocco before moving on to Europe.

Other countries I hope to visit on the way: Spain, Greece, Holland, England, Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Croatia...

Budget

Since early December, I've spent roughly $7,000 across 9 countries and two continents.

I spent about $900 in 17 days in Vietnam ($53/day), including a shipment of new clothes I had tailored for me in Hoi An (a suit, dress, jacket, skirts, shirts, and more). This also includes two guided tours of Halong Bay and the Mekong Delta.

Cambodia was very inexpensive at $36/day ($400 over 11 days). Half of that time I traveled with Karen, so we split costs for hotel and driving around Angkor (but not the hefty $60 entrance fee).

Laos was impossibly cheap at $20/day ($255 for 13 days). While Luang Prabang was average ($15/night for the hotel and $10 for a fancy dinner), overnight stays for $1-$3 in more remote areas helped stretch my Lao Kip.

I passed through Bangkok three times in transit, and spent a total of 15 days and $750 in Thailand ($50/day). That includes two Air Asia flights ($92 for both) and lots of great meals, hotels on the beach, and shopping.

Almost a month in Indonesia (24 days) totaled $1,735 ($72/day). Five days of diving, two nights at the Bali Intercontinental, and seven flights (including one missed flight at $27) brought up the average even though Amber and her family wouldn't let me pay for anything the week we were together.

On the way to Africa I ate well and bought a bunch of stuff in Korea ($135 including a jacket -- it was freezing in Seoul). Three short days in Cairo cost $100.

The past five weeks in East Africa cost $2,780 -- $1,480 over 22 days in Kenya ($67/day) plus $1,300 over 15 days in Tanzania ($87/day). That includes about $900 for 11 days of safari! Safari in Tanzania is almost double the cost of Kenya due to steeper park entry fees. The total also includes a round-trip flight from Cairo for $650 (I miss Air Asia!) and two days of diving (I miss Malaysia!).

Tanzania

After a side trip to the Kenyan coast (Mombasa and Diani Beach), I circled back to Nairobi to meet Monique from San Francisco. We met in Malaysia a few months back and did our diving certification together. (See my November post: Scuba Diving.) Since then, Monique ended her seven month trip through Asia and returned home. Two months later, Monique is traveling yet again in the few weeks before she starts her new job. I have the feeling she'll be planning another trip before the year is out.

It was great to travel with Monique again, especially here. Africa is not as easy as Asia, and flying solo is more of a challenge. We crossed from Kenya into Tanzania and signed up for a four-day safari in Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. Amazing just like my safari in Kenya... and this time we saw leopards and the wildebeest migration! Then we stopped at the base of Kilimanjaro (Moshi) where instead of climbing, we spent the day at the police station reporting a bus scam including the theft of Monique's boots.

We had four relaxing days in Zanzibar before returning to Moshi to retrieve the stolen boots which the police improbably recovered. Now I'm back in Nairobi to see Monique off. In less than a week, I too will be wrapping up my month in East Africa.

African Safari

It only took six flights to get from Southeast Asia (Flores, Indonesia) to Africa (Nairobi, Kenya) with rest stops in Bali, Seoul, and Cairo.

I decided to take some pressure off of my Africa itinerary by concentrating on a small part of East Africa. What better way to kick off my five week stint in Kenya and Tanzania than with a safari? The scenery is OK, but it's the wild animals that are the real attraction and those safari brochures are not exaggerating.

Getting there is part of the adventure: the roads here are horrific and punish vehicles along with their passengers. From Nairobi to Masai Mara takes six hours each way, not including a few stops for minor mechanical repairs. But even before you cross into the Game Reserves, the wildlife sightings begin.

Of course the place is crawling with zebras, buffalo, and antelope (ten types including my personal favorite, the Thomson's gazelle). A bit harder to find are the lions, elephants, giraffes, rhinoceroses, hippopotamuses, and elusive cheetahs. Then there are the birds... we spotted about forty different species without even trying, including flamingos by the thousands, massive eagles, crowned cranes, and the gorgeous lilac breasted rollers. Not to mention the miscellaneous baboons, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, and more.

Frederick, my personal driver/guide/teacher/mechanic/navigator, explained that the animals -- even those lions right next to us -- don't see you as long as you stay inside the vehicle. We drove around for hours identifying animals. I loved riding while standing on the seats, my head and shoulders poking through the open roof. I felt like I was outside... part of the scenery.

Indonesia and Southeast Asia Wrap-up

My last few weeks in Southeast Asia are ending on an upbeat note: wedding festivities in Jakarta Indonesia, a week in Bali with Amber, and scuba diving in Flores.

Five months, nine countries, and less than ten thousand dollars later, below are some of my highlights (in no particular order):

Most friendly kids: Vietnam
Most friendly adults: Indonesia
Most helpful adults (especially considering the language barrier): China
Best karaoke song: Total Eclipse of the Heart, Philippines (sing it, Sue!)
Most relaxing beach: Koh Jum, Thailand
Favorite fruit: (tie) Philippine mangoes and pineapples
Best scenery: Laos
Best temple: Angkor, Cambodia
Best handicraft shopping: Bali, Indonesia
Cleanest city: Singapore
Best ATM: Phnom Penh, Cambodia (dispenses US dollars with no fee)
Best coffee and pan au chocolat: Hanoi, Vietnam
Best clothes shopping: Hoi An, Vietnam
Best shoe shopping: Singapore
Best night craft market: Luang Prabang, Laos
Most fun mode of transport: Jeepneys (Philippines)
Cutest small village: Ban Na, Laos
Best bike ride: Yangshuo, China
Most crazy traffic: Vietnam
Best ancient architecture: Great Wall, China
Best modern architecture: Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai, China
Best diving: Pulau Sipadan, Malaysia
Best sunset: Boracay, Philippines
Best airport: Singapore
Favorite airline: Air Asia
Most fun food: Sticky rice, Laos
Best dim sum: Hong Kong
Best seafood: Cambodia
Best hike: Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia
Best rice terraces: Indonesia (Bali and Flores)
Most fascinating animal: ornate ghost pipe fish (Flores, Indonesia)
Best beer: Beer Lao, Laos
Best night food market: Singapore
Most bizarre item for sale on the street: Power tools (Philippines)

Finally, a short list of places I missed and hope to see another time: Melaka (Peninsular Malaysia), Sarawak (Malaysian Borneo), Similan Islands (Thailand), Sulawesi (Indonesia), Tibet (China), plus Japan and Australia/New Zealand/Fiji.

Tomorrow I'm off to Africa. I land in Cairo and am planning to head south to Kenya and Tanzania for some safari action.

Thailand Post-Tsunami

When I arrived in Phuket, Thailand I was lucky to meet John Moretti. He overheard me asking for directions to Khao Lak and offered me a ride, which turned into a two-day tour of the area hardest hit by the tsunami.

John is one of those rare, inspiring people who says "I should do something" and follows through beyond expectations. He has been working in Thailand for the past three months on his own project www.operationplayground.org as well as with www.airlineamb.org. Both efforts are impressive and make me wonder if I should spend time volunteering in addition to writing checks.

I can see that by coming to Thailand and working here on the ground, John's personal involvement and relationships with the Thai people are almost as important as the playgrounds he builds. He introduced me to a number of tsunami survivors, both Thai and international, and I heard their stories first-hand. I saw that much of the devastation has been cleaned up but there is still much more to be done. Above all, the thing that broke my heart was the refugee camp for orphaned Thai children (www.tsunamirefugees.org).

Laos

The relaxed pace in Laos is such a contrast to its go-getter neighbors (China, Vietnam, and Thailand). The country has no coastline, but its lovely mountain scenery is punctuated by numerous rivers including the Mekong. I rode as many boats as buses (four each) as the rivers provide the only means of transportation to remote villages such as Muang Ngoi Neua.

I spent three days there trekking after stops in Luang Prabang (quaint former capital packed with dozens of Buddhist temples), Vang Vieng (biking and kayaking backpacker hangout), and Vientiane (possibly the slowest national capital on Earth).

Laos is the place in SE Asia to mellow out, with lots of outdoor activities, spiritual places, and colorful villages. Now I'm back in Thailand (Chiang Rai) deciding where to go next before meeting Amber in Jakarta in two weeks.

Cambodia

Cambodia was tough. The magnificence of Angkor is overshadowed in my mind by recent tragedies.

The feeling first started with my arrival in Bangkok at the same time as the one-year anniversary of the tsunami.

Next I got my first glimpse of the poverty and desperation of Cambodia at the overland border crossing with Thailand. The flow of men, women, and children -- the majority working but some begging -- mostly toward wealthier Thailand was unlike anything I had ever seen.

The "major highway" to Siem Reap (the town near Angkor) was unpaved, dusty, and riddled with potholes. The country feels very undeveloped. As much as I loved Angkor, I disliked Siem Reap and the people in it who were constantly hassling me to try to get my business or begging (especially kids but also some land mine victims) -- much more intense than Shanghai and Hanoi put together.

After seeing the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh (site of the former Khmer Rouge S-21 prison) I know I should be more sympathetic. I haven't been to Auschwitz but I imagine the experience is similar. It is hard to believe what horrors took place in Cambodia during the 1970s and 1980s. Cambodia also suffered from US bombings during the Vietnam War. The people have endured a lot of trauma very recently.

On a positive note, I am glad I saw more of Cambodia than Siem Reap. I liked the people much better in the less touristed parts of the country. Phnom Penh was great and the beach at Sihanoukville was quiet and relaxed. Cambodia also serves up the best seafood in Asia.

Temples of Angkor

People rave about going to see Angkor Wat in Cambodia, a monumental temple ruin from the 12th century. What I didn't realize is that Angkor (meaning "city") is a massive complex comprising dozens of ruins, less than half of which I could visit in 4+ days.

The temples range in age from the 9th century to the 15th, and vary in style, size, and setting. Angkor Wat is the largest. Others have amazingly preserved carvings and bas-reliefs, interesting architecture, and a few are overgrown with fantastic tree roots adding a "jungle" dimension.

Tomorrow I shift from the past to the present -- from Angkor, ancient capital of the Khmer empire, to Cambodia's current capital, Phnom Penh.

Vietnam

I have always had mixed feelings about traveling to Vietnam because of my country's role in what is locally called "The American War."

Despite my own sense of guilt about US military activity in Indochina, today's Vietnamese do not harbor any negative feelings toward the US or Americans.

The kids are particularly wonderful. They are very friendly and sweet... they wave as you pass by and sing "hello hello." I started in Saigon and worked my way north to Hanoi with a stop in Central Vietnam (Hue and Hoi An). Vietnam is bigger than it looks and has a diversity of scenery (river industry, beaches, big cities, sea with karst formations, rice terraces) and lots of history. Unfortunately, as I headed north, the weather worsened: non-stop rain and flooding in Hue gave way to freezing temperatures in the highlands of Sapa.

I am excited to get back to some warmer climes! Tomorrow I fly to Bangkok to work my way toward Angkor in Cambodia. I also predict a beach in my near future.

Five countries and counting...

I have arrived in Vietnam after spending a week in Singapore. I'm in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC for short, aka Saigon) and so far so good. It reminds me of China, which is an excellent sign.

On the airplane I had some time to review my budget from the past few months. Read on if you are interested in how I've managed to spend less than $6,000 touring five countries in about three months. I've already told you about the $2,000 I spent in China ($65/day)...

Malaysia was a bargain at about $1,500 for nearly a month ($55/day). The biggest expenditures were the Open Water and Advanced Open Water diving certifications (a mere $370 for 12 dives), three nights at the Shangri-La in KL, plus a flight from the Peninsula to Borneo ($90 thanks to Air Asia... I love them!).

A short side trip to the Philippines set me back $450 ($50/day) including a $100 flight (Air Asia comes through again) and another day of diving. The biggest bargain destination so far.

Bali was most pricey ($900 or $100/day) on account of the $300 I spent buying and shipping some unbelievable souvenirs. This total also includes two flights -- Manila to KL and KL to Bali -- plus an expensive overnight at a Marriott near the airport in KL. (There's a story there.)

Singapore is also relatively expensive, where I spent $765 ($95/day) even with three nights at the Ritz-Carlton courtesy of Casey. She also paid for a sensational dinner at the restaurant atop the tallest hotel in town... highly recommended for the food and the views! I spent a few hundred bucks on food and drinks during my week (3 Singapore Slings at Raffles will cost you $12 each). The total also includes an expensive flight from Bali (I had to fly Garuda instead of Air Asia) plus another $150 on shopping plus Singapore Post (three pairs of shoes from Charles & Keith, among other things).

My budget is right on target, and I feel like I'm achieving a good balance between "living like a local" and treating myself to nice meals, mid-range hotels, and lots of purchases. Either way, the money I spend on this trip is the best money I have ever spent.

The current plan is to tour Vietnam starting with the Mekong Delta in the South then head North to Hanoi and environs with a stop or two on the way. Next will be Laos, Cambodia (Angkor Wat), then Bangkok.

Singapore

For some reason, I expected Singapore to feel the same as Hong Kong. While they are both developed Western metropolises studded with sky-scrapers and shopping malls, Singapore seems more green, more efficient, and more friendly.

Everything is clean and orderly. The food is fresh and beautiful -- even the hawker centers resemble food courts in upscale malls rather than the standard frenetic Asian night markets. The subway is fast, cheap, and air-conditioned. Taxis are spotless Mercedes sedans (including meters). Stores accept American Express. And the airport has free Internet!

Singapore is the best city in Asia! Maybe staying at the Ritz-Carlton and painting the town red with my friend Casey has something to do with it. Or maybe after Bali I am ready for a big-city fix. Either way, I can't stop telling Casey how much I love it here and am starting to think that I may need to come back after toughing it out on the Vietnam-Laos-Cambodia circuit.

Bali, Indonesia

Bali has been on my list for a long time (one of many that prompted this trip)... and it did not disappoint. My favorite spot was Ubud, a cute inland town with great shopping, excellent food, and a gorgeously landscaped hotel including a pool I had no time to use.

The island is very picturesque. I rented a bike for three days and rode along rice terraces and shop-lined streets stocked with local art and handicrafts. I also hiked part way up Bali's highest and holiest mountain: the Gunung Agung volcano. Finally I did a bit more diving at the Liberty wreck near Amed's rocky beaches. It is sad how quiet Bali is -- most hotels are empty and everyone laments the lack of tourists. What a shame that people are scared away from such a beautiful destination!

Next I'm off to Singapore then Vietnam/Laos/Cambodia. It looks like I may circle back to Indonesia in February. Amber's brother is getting married in Jakarta and I plan to change my ticket so I can meet up with the wedding party. I am constantly struggling with the trade-off between spending more time in one place and moving on to see others... I just don't want to cut the rest of my itinerary short by taking more time in Southeast Asia. Africa will just have to wait!

The Philippines

While I was a bit unsettled about trading time in Indonesia for an unplanned trip to the Philippines, I am so glad I went! Seven of us traveled to the tiny island of Boracay together, where we relaxed on the beach and did a few dives. The Philippines are very different from the rest of Southeast Asia: 7,000+ islands, heavy Spanish and American influences, and Catholic. Manila reminded me of Lima, Peru. The people are extremely friendly and we had great fun riding around in Jeepneys -- old US Army Jeeps which have been converted into colorful public buses.

I've just arrived in Ubud, Bali (Indonesia) where I plan to spend 9 days on the beach, biking, doing a wreck dive, and climbing another volcano. I have mixed feelings about being here after the bombs last month (and in 2002), but so far all seems peaceful and normal. And at 10,000 Indonesian rupiah to the dollar, I am a millionaire (a mere $100 = 1,000,000 Rp)!

Scuba Diving

Regards from Manila! I decided to switch around my plans and go with friends to the Philippines instead of Kalimantan and Sulawesi (Indonesia).

I spent the last few days in Semporna, Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) getting my Open Water and Advanced Open Water PADI certifications. Diving is incredible... very surreal. We did eleven dives -- including several at Sipidan -- where we saw an amazing variety of fish, sharks, coral, sea turtles, starfish, eels, etc.

My dive buddy, Monique from San Francisco, talked me into joining her and a bunch of others on a side trip to the Philippines. We just arrived and tomorrow we head to the beach at Boracay. After that I will visit Indonesia, flying to Bali on the 19th.

Mount Kinabalu

Climbing Mount Kinabalu was the toughest hike I have ever done. It is simply awesome. When I got to the peak (4,101 m/13,455 ft) I was overcome with emotion and burst into tears. It was less about the spectacular view and more about an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. It was a moving experience.

Borneo is a paradise for nature lovers. So far I have traveled in Sabah, the eastern part of Malaysian Borneo. The capital, Kota Kinabalu, is a cute little town on the coast with friendly people and great markets. Next I plan to take a 3-day PADI certification course at Semporna, the gateway to world-class diving at Pulau Sipadan.

On to Malaysian Borneo

My week traveling through Peninsular Malaysia with my new Dutch friends is at an end. I'm back in KL doing laundry and taking care of other errands after a few days at Taman Negara national park. We did some good hiking but ended up seeing only a flying squirrel, bats, fireflies, and a big rat. The jungle here is more about ambience than actual wildlife sightings.

Tomorrow I fly to Kota Kinabalu to meet up with another new Penang friend to climb Mount Kinabalu. Then I'm hoping the beach at Pulau Sipadan doesn't get rained out!

Penang and Cameron Highlands

It took a few days of culture shock, but I am starting to really like Malaysia. It is a wild mixture of Chinese, Indian, and Malay with a dash of British colonialism thrown in for good measure. Everyone is gearing up for the "holiday season" -- a double whammy of Deepavali for the Hindus (11/1) and Hari Raya Aidilfitri (11/3-4) for the Muslims.

While KL seemed quite conservative, Penang and an area called Cameron Highlands are very relaxed. Penang is filled with backpackers on their way to and from the beaches of southern Thailand. I met some great people with whom I am traveling, and hope to meet up with later in the trip.

The food in Penang is great, the locals are more friendly than the big-city dwellers, and there are colorful walking tours of the colonial, Chinatown, and Little India neighborhoods. While my heart was set on the Perhentian Islands next, it turns out that the monsoon on the east coast has started early this year. Instead I headed up to the Cameron Highlands with Lucy (British), Bjorn and Marjolein (both Dutch). We are relaxing here where it is cool and rainy as three of us gear up for the trip to Taman Negara tomorrow. After that I plan to fly from KL over to Malaysian Borneo.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

I've been acclimating to Malaysia at the gorgeous Shangri-La Hotel. It is taking a bit of getting used to -- things here are so different from China.

There seem to be fewer people around; it is much quieter than China. The people are less friendly even though they all speak English. The fact that Malaysia is a Muslim country is palpable -- many women fully covered, beautiful mosques, the newspaper content. The weather is sultry... tropical and humid, making KL very lush with lots of greenery and trees. You can also find an amazing selection of fruits.

My favorite thing so far is the Petronas Tower at night. I went there my first morning in KL to pick up a Malaysia guidebook (there's a huge shopping mall at its base) and for some reason I was under whelmed by the world's tallest building. But I went back on a whim after dinner and the lighting on the twin towers is magnificent!

Next I plan to head for Penang, Kota Bharu (beach), and Taman Negara (national park and hiking) on Peninsular Malaysia (the part just south of Thailand). Then I will fly over to Kota Kinabalu on Malaysian Borneo (a large island to the east shared with Indonesia) for some more serious hiking and beach-lounging.

Budgeting

For anyone interested in trip logistics... I had some time on the airplane to review my budget and I thought it might interest some of you (you aspiring travelers and accountants know who you are).

During my first month in China/Hong Kong, I spent $2,000. The largest expense was transportation -- not surprising considering how many cities I visited and how large China is. Four flights ($65-$100 each), two overnight trains ($37-$56), four ferries along the Three Gorges ($6-$14 each), countless shorter bus/subway/train/ferry/tram rides (12-50 cents each), plus a few splurges on taxis (I did live in New York after all). A total of $575 getting around, compared to $65 in entry fees to get into major sights.

Next was hotels ($560). They ranged from the $6.25 youth hostel (private room but shared bath) to the swanky Marriott Chongqing ($72). All were very clean and safe, some better located than others. I came to the realization that privacy and air-con are two things I cannot live without at this point in my life.

In third place are souvenirs ($275 + $100 to ship 11 parcels back to the US). Obviously I didn't see any furniture I wanted (nor did I have enough time to have any clothing tailored), but I did pick up some clothes, tea implements, paintings, and lots of small things for myself and others.

Food comes in at fourth place ($330). I could spend $300 on two dinners in NY -- but the food in China is so much better! The most pricey meals were in Hong Kong, where I spent $25-$45 on OK Western food. The best splurge was sushi in Beijing ($16). I had a few $10 "pay for the view" drinks at the Marriott in Chongqing, the Peninsula in Hong Kong, and the Jin Mao Tower in Shanghai. Otherwise, meals ran the gamut from 40 cent back-alley street food with locals to $4-$9 sit-down places.

Finally, let me add that I spent another $50 on phone calls and internet access. Same as a month of Road Runner, but priceless to keep in touch with all of you!

Farewell China

I am back in Beijing to catch flight #2 of my round-the-world ticket: Malaysia. I am sad to leave China. It is a fascinating place with a diversity of sights and wonderful people. I was just starting to figure out some key words in Mandarin -- a really cool but difficult language.

Once I got past the rude welcome of having my camera stolen, Shanghai became one of my favorite cities. There's a sleazy side that I didn't encounter elsewhere: street beggars, people routinely checking garbage cans, "Hello [DVD/watch/bag] Hello." Shanghai is a cross between Beijing and Hong Kong -- more modern than Beijing but not as sophisticated as Hong Kong. The Jin Mao tower is breathtaking, I enjoyed the Yu Yuan gardens, and there's a great area called People's Square with parks, a theater, and museums (the Shanghai Museum is excellent).

Hangzhou is just two hours from Shanghai, and the main attraction there is West Lake (Xi Hu, pictured). The best word I can use to describe it is serene. Many Chinese couples vacation there to stroll around the lake, see the many temples and parks, and relax around town. I rented a bike and rode around (and across the two causeways splitting the lake into sections). Along with Yangshuo, Hangzhou is the most scenic town I visited.

I spent one month in China, yet totally missed vast regions that also sound amazing -- Yunnan, Xinjiang, Tibet, Sichuan -- maybe next trip? Beijing 2008!

Shanghai

OK, I must admit that I plagiarized the photos on this and the previous post. The night I arrived in Shanghai I was deftly pick pocketed and relieved of my camera. I am trying to decide how to best replace it... too bad I just left Hong Kong. That seems like the right place to buy a camera. I'm not sure electronics in China are real, fake, or what.

The bright side is that I am fine. I feel like an idiot -- did I let my guard down because I have felt safe up to this point? Was I not careful enough? I was on a crowded bridge and everyone stopped to let a man take a photo of his two kids. In those 10 seconds, someone behind me was able to unzip my bag and take the camera. Amazing.

I also got to see how the Chinese police operate... not bad... One of the Chinese policemen spoke impeccable English; he was very nice and told me "it's not your fault, these things happen." A translator appeared in short order and we efficiently filed a theft report. They said they would email me when they find the camera -- I'm not holding my breath!

Hong Kong

I did not realize that going from China to Hong Kong is really going to another country. I was not prepared to leave China! I had a bad attitude when I arrived... after an early morning flight from Guilin to Shenzhen China, 3 hours of border crossings, plus another hour on the subway to the Central District. Things are expensive, I was hot, annoyed, and felt overwhelmed and disoriented in the big city.

Thankfully things improved from there. I found a small hostel in Causeway Bay which ended up being a 10-minute walk from High Holiday services. I celebrated the Jewish New Year with the Reform Jewish community of Hong Kong -- most of whom are expatriates. People were very friendly, and I made contacts with people visiting from Singapore and Cape Town.

I went up to the Peak and rode the Star Ferry to enjoy the stunning architecture. I shopped in the Ladies Market (I did need two new shirts and a pair of shoes to wear to synagogue). I rode double-decker buses and the tram around the city as well as the southern part of Hong Kong Island (beautiful mountain scenery and great beaches). And I embraced Hong Kong's Western-ness with McDonald's, Starbucks, and Pizza Hut. Hong Kong is electrifying!

Next I head to Shanghai, then complete my China loop by returning to Beijing (where I will spend Yom Kippur). I guess I need to start getting used to border crossings!

Yangshuo

I'm spending a few days in this small town (finally) which is an hour south of Guilin and also known as "backpacker central." Unfortunately the large number of tourists has made some of the locals less-than-honest... This is the first place where I have felt that people might be trying to take advantage of me. The seemingly friendly greeting "Hello Hello" is always followed by a sales pitch ("Water," "Cold Drink," "Look In"). I guess I expected that all over the country and got used to the Chinese people being genuinely friendly for the most part.

That said, the scenery more than makes up for the people. The town is on the bank of the Li River, surrounded by limestone karsts dotting the countryside. There are a number of small villages which are within biking distance. Yesterday I biked to Moon Hill and along the Yulong river, and today I visited Fuli and Xingping. It is hot... air-con is a must-have!

On Sunday I fly to Hong Kong where I will spend Rosh Hashana with the United Jewish Congregation of HK.

Three Gorges and Chongqing

Chongqing could not be more different from the towns I visited along the Yangtze River: Badong, Wushan, and Fengjie. It is hard to believe that despite the number of Westerners cruising on the river below, uphill I enjoyed celebrity status as the lone American "Meiguo." My independent personality had me traveling upriver on my own, rather than on a packaged cruise tour of the Three Gorges... Definitely a challenge, but it led to some great interactions and experiences.

The three towns are considered "small" -- but I've learned that there is no such thing as a small town in China. These cities have already moved up the mountains in anticipation of the rising water level. I was pleasantly surprised that it doesn't seem that the water level will rise that high -- much of the scenery should remain spectacular.

Chongqing is the most modern, cosmopolitan city so far. It's a booming metropolis, and at night the entire downtown is bathed in neon, reminiscent of Times Square. The people are hip and fashionable. Tonight I head for Guilin.

Great Wall and Xian

I'm giving this blog another try. It seems the Chinese government blocks the blog itself, but not the site where I update it... However, the instructions are in Chinese :/

China is incredible. Beijing is a lot like NY -- lots of people, concrete, skyscrapers, even a subway. The Forbidden City is impressive, and I enjoyed the Summer Palace even more. The Great Wall at Simitai is breathtaking -- I climbed from tower to tower, thinking that better views may lie ahead... eventually I had to give up and turn back, having spent hours covering only a fraction of what the eye could see.

Then onto Xian, the old capital and site of the Terracotta Warriors found only 30 years ago. Eight thousand life-sized statues were painstakingly placed underground to accompany Emperor Qin into the afterlife. Crazy.

I think I am allergic to Xian (the air quality is horrible), but overall the food has been fantastic, and the people wonderful. Now I head to Yichang, site of the Three Gorges Dam and gateway to the soon-to-be-destroyed gorges.

It looks as if my departure date for Malaysia is firm, October 14. Sunny (travel agent recommended by Richard) in Beijing has been super-helpful and worked out a great itinerary for me in China... still to come: Guilin, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. A month in China is ambitious, but so far the pace is fine and I feel great.

Who is meeting me in Malaysia?

Beijing, China

The flight was long (14 hours) and I arrived in Beijing at 2 p.m. on Wednesday (the time difference is 12 hours). So far I've visited the Forbidden City, seen a Chinese Acrobatics show, done some shopping, and went out for drinks on Sanlitun (a.k.a. bar street). Today I'm renting a bike to tool around the city. Beijing is a lot like New York -- lots of people and concrete, but it is very flat and distances are huge. Later I need to work out my China itinerary. I may head to the Great Wall tomorrow.

Packing List and Gear Review

Most useful items picked up along the way
Rain poncho in Vietnam ($1.25). I bought one while I was in Hue around the same time as major flooding due to non-stop rains. Everyone wears these huge sheets of thick plastic with hoods that cover you, your bags, and your bike. The more expensive model has a clear section at the front so your motorbike headlight shines through.

Sarongs/Kangas ($3-$4). These are large rectangular sheets of cotton that are perfect as beach towels. The materials are always fun and colorful; the kanga I bought in Kenya also included a "fortune" written in Swahili. A sarong/kanga can also be used as a dress, skirt, and privacy curtain in youth hostel dorms.

Bags
Jansport Syncline 38 backpack, capacity 2,350 cubic inches ($68 from Campmor). It was the perfect size, easy to carry, and very durable.
Small backpack ($8 in Vietnam). Great for day trips and as an overflow bag I could wear in front.
Small camera bag ($6 in China). Unfashionable but also unpickpocketable.
2 Granite Gear packing cubes (1 large, 1 small). Fantastic for keeping my clothes compact and organized.
2 Granite Gear organizer bags
Small dry bag for storing electronic items
Money belt

Clothes
4 short-sleeve shirts, 2 shorts, 2 long pants, windbreaker, rain poncho, 2 long sleeve shirts, fleece top, swimsuit, baseball cap, Teva sandals, hiking boots ($75 from EMS), 3 pair of thick socks, 5 liner socks, boxer shorts, 5 pair underwear, 2 bras

I found that I felt more comfortable wearing pants everywhere since most places are fairly conservative. Just about all of the clothes were made from synthetic materials (Coolmax, etc.) which meant they dried quickly after washing and were durable. During the trip I replaced my hiking boot inserts (Superfeet) and hiking socks.

Most of the time I was in warm places so I packed few warm clothes. I sent home a too-bulky fleece vest and too-hot pair of hiking pants in Vietnam -- a week before traveling to Sapa in the mountains where it was freezing! In Sapa and to hike Mount Kinabalu I bought two pairs of gloves which I later gave away. In Turkey I picked up a track suit for warmth... also subsequently ditched.

Electronics
Digital camera (Sony DSC-P150). I had the resolution set to 5 megapixels, each photo was roughly 2 MB. The camera was fairly reliable except for in places with high humidity. In humid conditions sometimes the lens would not open when I turned the camera on.

Memory cards (about 2 gigabytes total). When I ran out of memory one of the biggest challenges was burning the photos onto CD-ROMs. I'm not sure yet whether I succeeded in saving all of my pictures. Internet cafes were amazingly reliable for online access but much harder to depend on for photo burning.

Palm Zire 21. Wonderful for keeping track of my finances while on the road (Pocket Quicken $35 from Landware) and having my address book and other saved information handy. The calculator function is also useful. Mostly the Palm was reliable but in hot weather the touch screen did not work. Very inconvenient in Egypt.

Camera accessories: Extra camera battery, camera charger, blank CD/DVD-ROMs. The blank media were not necessary; any internet cafe with CD burning capabilities can provide blank CDs (700 MB) and most cannot handle DVDs (4.7 GB). Usually I paid $1 per CD-ROM and $1/hour for internet access.

iPod shuffle. A lifesaver on long bus rides and in places where I wanted to tune out people who were hassling me (e.g. arriving at bus stations in Asia) -- I just started singing aloud and the taxi drivers ran away.

USB charger. This worked perfectly to recharge both my iPod shuffle and the Palm.

Adapter kit ($30 from Brookstone)

Toiletries
Quick-dry towel, sunscreen, tampons, extended-wear contact lenses, small contact solution, nail clipper, Woolite, toilet paper, hand cream, shampoo, conditioner, comb, toothbrushes, toothpaste, floss, lip balm, nail file, insect repellent, wet wipes

First Aid Kit
Band-aids, iodine, Zithromax, Diamox, Imodium, Cipro, Lariam (anti-Malarial), Aleve, ibuprofen, ace bandage, antibiotic ointment, thermometer, Tums, Pepto Bismol (Plus 7 immunizations: typhoid, yellow fever, Japanese encephalitis, polio, meningitis, hepatitis, tetanus)

Other
2 water bottles. One from Nalgene has lasted for years and never leaked. A second, new bottle (Eddie Bauer from Target, $5) leaked.
Water filter. Unnecessary. In Asia you can use boiled water to make tea, everywhere else bottled water is readily available and much more convenient than filtering/purifying.
Sunglasses, glasses, and glasses case
Books: pocket world atlas, guidebook, reading book, Point It (indispensable in China)
Bandanna, journal, pens, earplugs and eyeshade (key for overnight trips), Swiss Army knife ($36 including a corkscrew and can opener), luggage lock, Coolmax sleep sack, US stamps to give as gifts, multivitamins
2 ATM cards (Commerce gave better rates than Citibank), 4 credit cards (rarely used)